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.Sciences 
CarparatiQn 


as  WKT  MAIN  STRUT 

WIUTm.N.Y.  MSM 

(71*)  t71-4S03 


M 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


( 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  IVIicroroproductlona  /  institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avaiiabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
ra^roduction,  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


□ 


Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I     I    Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommag^a 

Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurte  at/ou  palliculte 


I      I    Covar  titia  miaaing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqu<a 

Colourad  mapa/ 

Cartaa  gAographiquaa  an  coulaur 


□    Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 

|~n    Colourad  plataa  and/or  illuatrationa/ 


Planchaa  at/ou  illuatrationa  an  coulaur 

Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
RaliA  avac  d'autraa  documanta 

Tight  binding  may  cauaa  ahadowa  or  diatortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  r9  liura  aarr^a  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombro  ou  da  la 
diatortion  la  long  da  la  marga  intiriaura 

Blank  laavaa  addad  during  raatoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibia,  thaaa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
11  aa  paut  qua  oartainaa  pagaa  blanchaa  ajoutiaa 
lora  d'una  raatauration  apparaiaaant  dana  la  taxta, 
mala,  loraqua  cala  4tait  poaaibia,  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  4t«  filmAaa. 


Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  auppl4mantairaa: 


Various  pagingi. 


L'Inatitut  a  microfiimA  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  it6  poaaibia  da  aa  procurer.  Laa  ditaila 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  aont  paut-Atra  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raproduita,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  normala  da  filmaga 
aont  indiqute  ci-daaaoua. 


D 
D 
D 

S 
D 

D 
D 
D 
D 


Colourad  pagaa/ 
Pagaa  da  coulaur 

Pagaa  damaged/ 
Pagaa  andommagtea 

Pagaa  raatorad  and/or  laminated/ 
Pagaa  reataurtea  at/ou  pallicultea 

Pagaa  diacolourad,  atainad  or  foxed/ 
Pagaa  dAcolortea,  tachatAaa  ou  piquAea 

Pagaa  detached/ 
Pagaa  dAtachtea 

Showthrough/ 
Tranaparance 

Quality  of  print  variaa/ 
Quality  InAgaia  da  rimproaaion 

Includee  aupplamentary  material/ 
Comprand  du  matAriei  auppMmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mitlon  diaponible 

Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obacured  by  errata 
alipa,  tiaauea,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
enaure  the  beat  poaaibia  image/ 
Lea  pagaa  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obacurciea  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  una  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  At*  fiimiae  i  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  mellleure  image  poaaibia. 


Thia  item  la  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  ImIow/ 

Ce  document  eat  fllmi  au  taux  de  rMuetton  indlquA  ci'deaaoua. 


The 
to  tl 


The 
poai 
of  tl 
film 


Orifl 

bagi 

the 

•ion 

oth« 

firat 

aion 

or  ill 


The 
•hal 
TINI 
whi( 

Map 
diff« 
entii 
beg 

right 
requ 
meti 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

28X 

30X 

y 

lax 

16X 

20X                          aiX                          2IX                          32X 

ire 

details 
les  du 
modifier 
ler  une 
fiimage 


The  copy  filmed  here  hee  been  reproduced  thanlcs 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Brock  University 
St.  Catharines 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  fi.'mA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  ia 
gin^rositA  de: 

Brocit  University 
St.  Catharines 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  AtA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  st 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 


tos 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impree- 
sion,  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copiee  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  iliuatrated  imprea- 
slon,  and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impreesion. 


The  laat  recorded  frame  on  eech  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  una  emprotnte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  lea  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  on  commenpant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  on  terminant  par 
la  demiire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dee  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  comer,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartea.  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  k  des  taux  de  reduction  diff4^renta. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich*.  il  est  film*  k  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  *  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  baa.  en  prenent  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iilustrent  la  mAthode. 


'  errata 
d  to 

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■'  \  OR 

POCKET  MANUAL 

>.        '      .  FOR 

T  R  AVE  L  L  E  R  S 

'  ^  ON  y 

* 

THE  HUDSON  RIVER,  THE  WESTERN  CANAL 

ft 

AND 

STAGE  ROAD  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS 

^  DOWN 

LAKE  ONTARIO  AND  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE 

TO 

MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC. 


COMPRISING  ALSO 

THE  ROUTES  TO  LEBANON,  BALLSTON,  AND 
SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 

"  ■ 

THIRD   EDITION,   ENLARGED   AND  IMPROTBD. 


NEW-YORK : 

FUBLISIIED    BY    HARPER   Sc    BROTHERS, 
NO.    82  CLIFF-STREKT. 


1834. 


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Enteitd,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1834, 

By  Harper  &  Brothers, 

In  the  CIerk*8  Office  of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York, 


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^         PREFACE. 


#, 


*'i 


Tn  presenting  the  third  edition  of  the  Tourist  to 
the  public,  the  publishers  ojflfer  their  acknowledgments 
for  the  very  liberal  patronage  received  by  the  former 
ones,  and  hope  the  emendations  and  numerous  ad- 
ditions will  meet  with  general  approbation. 

It  is  beUeved  that  all  the  information  required  by 
tourists  through  this  State  and  Canada  will  be  found 
in  the  pages  of  this  work,  divested  of  unnecessary 
details,  and  clearly  arranged  and  classified. 

Some  of  the  items,  especially  in  relation  to  steam- 
boat navigation  and  the  canal  and  stage  routes,  are 
probably  more  full  and  accurate  than  have  been  con- 
tained in  any  of  the  itineraries  already  published ; 
while  in  the  enumeration  of  interesting  points  on  the 
Hudson  and  elsewhere,  brevity  has  been  observed, 
from  a  desire,  as  much  as  possible,  to  compress  the 
work,  so  as  to  render  it  emphatically  the  pocket- 
companion  of  the  traveler,  and  its  price  proportion- 
ably  moderate. 


■^ 


ALMANAC...  .1834. 


1. 


Being,  after  the  4th  of  July,  the  59th  of  American  Independence: 


Jan. 


Feb. 


M 


March. 


April. 


May. 


June.  . . 


1 

p 

GO 

o 

1 
1 

1 

1 

2 

3 

4 

%J 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

1 
8 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

1 
8 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

26 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

July.  . 


August. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


Dec. 


a 

S3 
CO 


6 
13 
20 
27 

3 
10 
17 
24 
31 

7 
14 
21 

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16 

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7 

21 

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4 
11 
18 
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2 

9 

16 

23 


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9 

16 

23 

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6 
13 
20 
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3 
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17 
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22 

29 

5 
12 
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3 

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17 
24 


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10 
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7 
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l^ates  of  Fare  in  Hackney  Coaches  in  New-York, 

If  the  driver  and  stranger  disagree  as  to  distance, 
the  street-commissioner  will  decide. 

For  taking  a  person  any  distance  not  ex- 
ceeding one  mile $)  25 

For  taking  one  person  any  distance  ex- 
ceeding a  mile,  and  within  the  lamp  and 
watch  districts 50 

For  every  additional  passenger    ...         25 

For  carrying  a  passenger  to  the  new 
alms-house,  and  returning       .....         75 

For  every  additional  rmssenger,  and  re- 
turning    . 37|- 

For  conveying  a  passenger  around  the 
first  or  Sandy  Hill  tour 1  00 

For  conveying  a  passenger  around  the 
second  or  Love  Lane  tour      .     .     .     .     .     2  00 

For  conveying  a  passenger  around  the 
third  or  Lake's  tour .     2  50 

For  conveying  one  or  more  passengers 
around  the  fourth  or  Apthorp's  tour,  with 
the  privilege  of  detaining  the  carriage  two 
hours 3  50 

For  conveying  one  or  more  passengers  to 
Harlaem,  and  returning,  with  the  privilege 
of  detaining  the  carriage  two  hours       .     .     4  00 

For  conveying  one  or  more  passengers 
any  distance  not  herein  mentioned  or  de- 
scribed, and  returning,  for  every  mile  which 
they  may  proceed  from  the  said  stands  re- 
spectively      .         50 

Children  under  14  years  of  age  half  price. 

The  above  is  an  extract  from  the  Corporation  Laws. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


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Riotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  S72-4503 


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STEAMBOATS    FROM    NEW-YORK. 


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NEW-YORK,  ALBANY,  AND  TROY  LINE. 

Day  Line  from  the  foot  of  Barclay -street. 
Night  Line  f  ram  the  foot  of  Courtland-st. 

Erie Capt.  James  Benson. 

Albany "  J.G.Jenkins. 

Champlain "  A.  Gorham. 

North  America "  R.  G.  Cruttenden. 

Ohio "  M.Bartholomew. 

Constitution *'  A.  Hoyt. 

Constellation *'  D.  Brown,  Jr. 

Novelty "  T.  Wiswall. 

One  of  the  above  boats  leaves  daily,  at  7  o'clock,  A.M.,  and 
6  o'clock,  P.  M.  for  Albany,  Troy,  and  tht  intermediate  places. 

PEOPLE'S  OPPOSITION  LINE. 
Sandusky  Capt.  C.  J.  Swartwout. 

Trnmn    i  Burdcn's    doublo       )  ^^  

j!.mma  ^  ^^^^^  300feet  long.  S  * 

The  regular  days  of  departure  of  these  boats  will  be  best 
ascertained  from  the  daily  papers. 

For   Singsing,  Peekskill,  and  Newburgh  Lines,  see  daily 
newspapers. 

RAIL-ROAD  LINE, 
For  Philadelphia,  via  Bordentown,  from  Pier  No.  1  North  River. 

Lidependence Capt.  G,  N.  Diehl. 

Swan "      C.Seymour. 

Thistle " i . 

A  boat  of  this  line  departs  three  times  each  day  (except 
Sunday)  at  6  and  10  A.M.,  and  12  M. 

"  "OPLE'S  LINE, 
From  the  same  x     r,  via  New- Brunswick  and  Trenton. 

New- York Capt.  Van  Pelt. 

Leaves  every  day  at  G,  A.  M. 


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NEW-YORK  AND  BOSTON  LINE. 

President Capt.  E.  S.  Bunker. 

Benjamin  Franklin "      R.B.Coleman. 

Providence "      S.  Thayer. 

Boston "      W.  Comstock. 

For  particulars  and  time  of  starting,  see  advertisements  in 
newspapers. 

NEW-HAVEN  LINE. 

From  the  foot  of  Beekman-street. 

Superior Capt.  Sanford. 

Splendid *'      Stone. 

One  of  these  boats  leaves  daily  at  7  A  .M. 

HARTFORD  LINE. 

New-England Capt.  Waterman. 

Macdonough  *'     Havens. 

Oliver  Ellsv^rorth "     . 

Chief  Justice  Marshall "     Howes. 

A  boat  departs  daily  at  4  P.  M.  from  the  foot  of  Beekman- 
street  ;  and  three  times  each  week  at  7  o'clock,  A.  M. 

CHARLESTON  LINE. 

William  Gibbons Capt.  Pennoyer. 

DavidBrown "      Coffey. 

Leave  the  foot  of  Catharine -street  alternately  every 
Saturday  afternoon  at  4  o'clock. 

NORWALK  AND  BRIDGEPORT  LINES. 
From  the  foot  of  Market  and  Catharine  streets. 

Fairfield  Capt.  Peck. 

Citizen *'      Hendtee. 

Nimrod "      Brooks. 

Westchester "     St.  John. 

Boats  leave  Fulton  Market  daily  for  Flushing,  Hallet's 
Cove,  Throgg's  Neck,  New-Rochelle,  Mosquito  Cove,  Cold 
Spring,  and  Shrewsbury. 

There  are  several  other  boats  plying  to  different  places 
from  New- York,  for  the  time  of  departure  of  which,  as  well 
as  those  above  enumerated,  the  most  sure  way  is  to  refer  to 
the  advertisements  in  the  daily  newspapers,  as  their  arrange- 
ments are  subject  to  frequent  alterations. 


!. 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS  IN  NEW- YORK. 


Keepers^  Names, 
C.  Jennings. 
M'Neil  Seymour. 


1        1 
1 

Location. 

Cilv  Hotel 

.No  113  Broadway 

i. 

Atlantic  Hotel 

Adelohi  Hotel 

.  IVrt   fi  Rrnnrl wnv 

p 

.  Cr.  Beaver-st.  and  Broadway. 

,               Mansion  House 

Niblo's  Hotel 

•  IVo.  39  Broadwav 

•  No   112  Broadwav  •••••••••» 

„v 

1                 Franklin  House 

'                  American  Hotel 

Washington  Hotel  — 
Pearl-atrept  House  . . . 

.  Cr.  Dey-3t.  and  Broadway  . . . 
.  Cr.  Barclay-st.  and  Broadway 
.  Cr.  Chambers-st.  «fe  Broadway 
.  No   88  Pparl-stfpet 

Barclay-street  Hotel.. 

'<                 Clinton  Hotel 

Exchange  Hotel 

<  Steamboat  landing,  foot  of  ^ 
'   1  Barclay-street S 

.  Tlp*»Vn'ian-«jtrppt 

.  No8.  8  and  10  Broad-street .  • . 

• 

Eastern  Pearl-sl.  House  Cr.  Pearl  and  Ferry  streets  . . 

Holt's  Ho5l«"iP -   i^'f   \Vs^pr  nnH  PnWnn  strpptta  . 

New-York  Hotel 

1                  Walton  House 

.  No.  162  Greenwich-street.... 
.  No.  326  Pearl-street 

Webb's  Congress  Hall.  Broadway 


W.  J.  Bunker 
Niblo. 

iVewton  Hayes. 
Milford. 

B.  Douglas. 

Harrison  and 
Benson. 

Howard. 

Foster. 

Holt. 

Dean. 

S.  Backus. 

C.  H.  Webb. 


f 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS  IN  ALBANY. 


km 


Eagle  Tavern 

American  Hotel 

City  Hotel 

Mansion  Flouse 

Adelphi  Hotel 

Bement's  Hotel 

Park- Place  House  . .. 

National  &  Columbian 
Hotel 

Fort  Orange  Hotel. . .. 

Montgomery  Hall  . . .  < 


Location.  Keeper's  Namet. 

South  Market-street L.  Cruttenden. 

No.  100  State-street I.  Thomas. 

No-th  Market-street S.  Chapin  «k  Co. 

North  Market-street Bradstreet. 

Cr.  Market  and  State  streets  .  Cross. 

No.  82  State-street C.N.  Bement. 

Park-Place Landon. 

No.  555  South  Market-street. .  B.  Jeeup. 

No,  549  South  Market-street. .  E.  Foot. 
South  Market-street. .  Chapin. 


-' 


^ 


ROUTE    FROM    PHILADELPHIA  TO 

N  E  W-Y  O  II K. 


PASSAGE  UP  THE  DELAWARE. 

The  People^s  Opposition  Line  goes  by  way  of 
Trenton  and  New-Brunswick ;  and  the  Rail-road 
Line  as  follows  : 

After  starting,  the  ship-house  in  the  Navy-yard 
will  be  seen  opposite.  A  number  of  ship-yards  and 
three  or  four  glass-houses  will  be  noticed ;  also  a 
shot-tower,  and  a  number  of  tall  spires,  which  appear 
conspicuous  among  the  great  mass  of  buildings. 
The  boat  moves  on  in  the  "  even  tenor  of  her  way," 
and  the  traveller  soon  finds  himself  at 

Burlington,  18  miles  from  Philadelphia,  which, 
like  most  of  the  villages  along  the  Delaware,  fills  a 
very  interesting  page  in  the  history  of  the  Revolu- 
tion. It  is  a  very  handsome  town,  beautifully  located 
on  an  inclined  plane,  and  many  of  the  buildings  dis- 
play much  taste. 

Bristol,  nearly  opposite,  presents  to  view  a  num- 
ber of  handsome  buildings,  with  extensive  and  beau- 
tiful gardens  attached.  After  proceeding  10  miles 
farther,  the  boat  arrives  at 

BoRDENTowN,  a  haudsomo  village,  situated  on  an 
elevated  bank.  Here  the  passengers  take  cars  on 
the  Camden  and  Amboy  Rail-road^  and  after  proceed- 
ing a  short  distance,  the  seat  and  residence  of  the 
Ex-king   of    Spain,    Joseph   Bonaparte,   who   now 


i'- 


it 


13 


PHILADELPHIA    TO    NEW-YORK. 


Styles  himself  the  Count  de  SurviUiers,  is  seen  on 
the  left.  Passing  on  through  several  small  towns, 
the  car  arrives  at 

South  Amboy,  the  terminating  point  of  the  rail- 
road, which  is  35  miles  in  length.  Here  the  steam- 
boat lies  at  the  wharf  in  readiness  to  proceed  down 
the  Raritan  River ;  and  as  soon  as  the  passengers  can 
be  transferred  from  the  cars,  she  gets  under  way 
and  proceeds  to 

Perth  Amboy,  which  is  directly  opposite,  across 
the  river.  There  is  little  here  to  attract  notice. 
Some  shipping  generally  lies  at  the  wharves,  but  the 
place  does  not  wear  a  very  business-like  aspect. 

Elizabethtown  Point,  within  15  miles  of  New- 
York,  is  the  next  stopping-place.  The  village  of 
Elizahethtoivn  is  two  miles  inland. 

The  boat  now  enters  the  broad,  beautiful  bay  of 
New- York,  and  Fort  Lafayette  is  seen  between 
Long  and  Staten  islands,  in  the  passage  to  the  sea 
called  "  The  Narrows."  On  the  right  is  seen  Castle 
Williams  and  Governor's  Island,  on  the  left  are 
Ellis's  and  Bedlow's  islands,  which  are  both  fortified, 
and  in  front  an  immense,  almost  innumerable,  quan- 
tity of  shipping  lying  at  the  wharves,  with  an  ex- 
tended background  of  lofty  buildings,  among  which 
the  towering  spires  of  the  numerous  churches  scat- 
tered about  the  city  appear  very  conspicuously. 

New- York  is  the  largest  and  most  populous  city 
in  the  United  States,  and  has  an  unrivalled  location 
as  a  commercial  city,  at  the  junction  of  the  East 
and  Hudson  rivers,  on  an  island  of  15  miles  in 
length  by  1-j  in  width.  It  is  now  built  nearly  in  a 
triangular  shape,  and  extends  about  3  miles  on  each 
river.  The  principal  portion  of  shipping-business  is 
transacted  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  city,  as  that 


\ 


PHiLADELPUlA    TO    NEW-YORK. 


13 


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part  of  the  harbour  is  best  protected  from  prevaiUng 
storms.  The  East  River,  opposite  the  city,  is  about 
half  a  mile  wide,  and  the  North  River  something  more 
than  a  mile.  The  principal  streets  run  north  and 
south,  and  are  crossed  at  right  angles  by  streets  but- 
ting on  each  river.  Broadway^  a  handsomely-built 
avenue j  about  3  miles  in  length  and  80  feet  in  viridth, 
is  the  fashionable  promenade  of  the  city,  and  is 
generally  crowded  in  pleasant  weather  with  every 
description  of  persons  and  natives  of  almost  every 
clime.  Here  you  see  "  nice  young  men  with  gold- 
headed  canes,  just  returned  from  their  travels :  foreign 
gentlemen  of  great  distinction  and  superb  mustachios ; 
full-fledged  heirs  sporting  their  figures  and  their  cash; 
brisk  minors  panting  for  their  majority  and  for  early 
distinction  ;  and  geniuses  of  the  first  water,  who  ex- 
hibit themselves  in  their  most  intellectual,  interesting, 
and  abstract  cast  of  expression.  All  shapes,  and 
hues,  and  conditions,  and  distinctions ;  all  varieties 
of  beauty  and  of  ugliness,  of  wealth  and  of  povertyj 
pride  that  exhibits  itself  in  a  new  coat,  and  pride 
that  peeps  through  the  torn  drapery  of  an  old  one, 
from  the  milliormaire  down  to  the  poor  sweep, — you 
may  see  them  all  in  Broadway.  The  aristocratic 
coach,  and  the  lowly  dust-cart,  the  barouche  and 
the  wheelbarrow  are  constantly  passing  each  other 
by  on  this  grand  thoroughfai  ■  -the  great  highway  of 
the  several  fifteen  wards  of  tnis  noisy  and  bustling 
city." 

The  principal  places  of  public  amusement  are  the 
Park,  Bowery,  and  Richmond-Hill  Theatres  ;  Peale's 
and  the  American  Museums,  and  several  gardens,  of 
which  Niblo^s  and  the  Castle  are  decidedly  the  most 
pleasant.  The  city  contains  120  churches,  many  of 
which  are  beautiful  buildings,  and  constructed  in  a 

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PHILADELPHIA    TO    NEW-YORK. 


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chaste  style  of  architecture.  The  literary  and  scien- 
tific institutions  in  the  city  are  Columbia  College, 
established  1754,  Medical  College,  Lyceum  of  Natu- 
ral History,  Historical  Society,  Atheneum,  Society 
Library,  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  National  Academy 
of  Design,  Law  Institute,  Mercantile  Library  Asso- 
ciation, &c.  About  300,000  tons  of  shipping,  com- 
prising many  of  the  most  elegant  and  fast-sailing 
ships  in  the  world,  are  owned  here ;  about  seventy 
newspapers  are  published,  and  there  are  several  ex- 
tensive book-printing  establishments  in  the  city. 
The  population  of  the  city  by  the  census  of  1830 
was  202,589,  and  is  now  estimated  at  about  250,000. 
The  first  fortified  settlement  was  made  here  in 
1615  by  the  Dutch,  one  year  after  the  settlement  of 
Albany. 


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ROUTE  FROM  NEW-YORK  TO 

ALBANY. 


[References. —  *  Places  at  which  the  regular  steamboats, 
lunnnig  between  New-York  and  Albany  land. — E.  S.  East 
side  of  the  river. — W.  S.  West  side  of  the  river. — Distances  on 
the  river  will  be  ascertained  by  referring  to  the  Map  of  the  Hud- 
son which  is  connected  with  this  work. — Distances  on  the  canal 
will  be  seen  by  referring  to  the  table  at  page  47.] 


PASSAGE  UP  THE  HUDSON. 

The  Hudson  River  was  first  discovered,  Septem- 
ber 4,  1609,  by  Henry  Hudson,  from  whom  it  derives 
its  name.  It  rises  2^0  miles  north  of  New- York,  in 
a  mountainous  country  on  the  confines  of  Canada, 
between  Lakes  Ontario  and  Champlain,  and  may 
justly  be  regarded  as  the  Thames  of  America.  It 
is  a  noble  river,  abounding  with  scenery  of  the  most 
sublime,  picturesque,  and  romantic  character ;  not 
surpassed,  for  variety  and  grandeur,  by  any  in  the 
world. 

At  the  time  appointed,  the  boat  moves  from  the 
wharf,  "  like  a  thing  of  life,"  and  the  stranger  finds 
himself  in  the  midst  of  a  varied  and  splendid  scene. 
On  the  right  he  has  New- York,  with  its  Battery,  and 
Castle  Garden  ;  on  the  left  Jersey  City  and  Hoboken, 
and  on  the  south  a  view  of  the  Narrows  leading  to 
Sandy  Hook,  and  a  far  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
22  miles  from  the  city.  Directly  opposite  the  Bat- 
tery is  seen  Governor's  Island,  on  which  is  situated 
Castle  WiUiams.     The  Quarantine  ground  at  Staten 


B    i1 


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"        .- 


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V 


16 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    IILDSOX. 


t 


IV 


Island  is  also  seen  in  a  soiuhernly  direction,  and  its 
white  buildings  form  a  striking  object  in  looking 
down  the  bay.  As  the  boat  proceeds,  on  the  right 
are  seen  the  old  State  Prison  (which  is  no  longer 
occupied,  as  the  prisoners  have  been  removed  to  the 
new  prison  at  Singsing),  Fort  Gansevoort,  and  the 
Episcopal  Theological  Seminary,  built  of  gray  hewn 
stone.  On  the  left  the  shady  walks  of  Hoboken, 
the  cottage  on  the  "  Elysian  Fields,"  and  Col.  Ste- 
vens's mansion  on  the  promontory  called  "  Hoboken 
Point"  arrest  the  attention.  A  short  distance  above, 
the  hills  of  Weehawken  are  seen.  Weehawken,  the 
romantic  beauties  of  which  have  inspired  the  sprightly 
muse  of  Halleck,  is  the  celebrated  duelling-ground, 
and  the  spot  where  the  fatal  duel  between  Col.  Aaron 
Burr  and  Gen.  Hamilton  was  fought,  1804.  It  is 
3  miles  from  the  city,  and  its  retired  walks  and  con- 
venient solitude  have  created  its  notoriety  as  the 
place  where  "  affairs  of  honour"  are  generally  settled. 
A  neat  marble  monument  was  here  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Hamilton ;  but  it  has  been  removed  within 
a  few  years,  his  remains  having  been  interred  in 
Trinity  churchyard,  beneath  a  fine  monument,  en- 
closed in  an  iron  railing. 

The  Palisadoes  commence  at  Weehawken,  and  ex- 
tend about  20  miles  up  the  western  side  of  the  river. 
These  are  a  range  of  trap-rock  (the  altitudes  of 
which  are  from  20  to  550  feet),  which  form  almost 
one  impassable  barrier,  presenting  nearly  a  perpen- 
dicular surface. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  (E.  S,),  7  miles  from  the  city, 
is  built  of  hewn  freestone.  The  situation  is  beau- 
tiful and  commanding. 

Harlaem  (E.S.).  A  small  village  containing  a 
phurch,  three  stores,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  &c.     The 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


17 


.'^  *'■ 


ridge  of  highland  which  extends  across  the  island  is 
called  Harlaem  Heights^  on  which,  during  the  revolu- 
tion, a  line  of  fortifications  was  thrown  up  quite 
across  to  the  East  River. 

Fort  Lee  (W.  S.),  on  the  brow  of  the  PaUsadoes, 
300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water — this  fort  was 
evacuated  in  1776. 

Fort  Washington  (E.  S.).  The  ruins  of  this  for- 
tress are  on  the  summit  of  a  high  hill,  12  miles  from 
the  city.  This  fort  was  surrendered  by  the  Ameri- 
cans to  the  Hessians  in  1776,  together  with  2600 
men. 

Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek  (E.  S.),  13  miles  from  the 
city.  This  creek  derivred  its  name  from  the  follow- 
ing circumstance.  When  New-Amsterdam  (now 
New-York)  was  in  possession  of  the  Dutch,  Peter 
Stuyvesant,  then  governor,  sent  Antony  Van  Corlaer, 
his  right-hand  man  and  sounder  of  brass,  alias,  trum- 
peter, on  an  important  message  up  the  river.  On 
his  arrival  at  this  creek,  having  no  means  of  passing 
it,  he  paused  in  much  perplexity :  but  his  zeal  to  ac- 
complish the  mission  was  not  to  be  overcome  by  the 
want  of  a  boat^  so  he  very  heroically  threw  off  his 
coat  and  made  a  vow  he  would  cross  it  "  spuyten 
duyvel."  "  It  was  a  dark  and  stormy  night  when 
the  good  Antony  arrived  at  the  famous  creek  (sagely 
denominated  Harlaem  River)  which  separates  the 
island  of  Manahatta  from  the  mainland.  The  wind 
was  high,  the  elements  were  in  an  uproar,  and  no 
Charon  could  be  found  to  ferrv  the  adventurous 
sounder  of  brass  across  the  water.  For  a  short  time 
he  vapoured  like  an  impatient  ghost  upon  the  brink, 
and  then,  bethinking  himself  of  the  urgency  of  his 
errand,  took  a  hearty  embrace  of  his  stone  bottle, 
swore  most  valorously  that  he  would  swim  across  en 

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PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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spijt  en  Duyvel  (in  spite  of  the  Devil) !  and  daringly 
plunged  into  the  stream.  Luckless  Antony !  Scarce 
had  he  buffeted  half-way  over  v^^hen  he  was  observed 
to  struggle  violently,  as  if  battling  with  the  spirit  of 
the  waters — instinctively  he  put  his  trumpet  to  his 
mouth,  and  giving  a  vehement  blast — sank  for  ever 
to  the  bottom!" — Knickerbocker <,  p.  232. 

Philipsburgh  (E.  S.),  17  miles  from  the  city,  con- 
tains a  church  and  several  houses. 

Fort  Independence  (E.  S.).  Directly  opposite  this 
fort  the  PaUsadoes  are  of  greater  height  than  at  any 
other  point. 

DoBBs's  Ferry  (E.  S.)  22i  miles  from  the  city. 

Tarrytown  (E.  S.).  Major  Andre  was  captured 
at  this  place  when  returning  from  his  visit  to  Gen. 
Arnold,  and  en  his  way  to  the  British  lines,  Septem- 
ber 23,  1780.  The  tree  under  which  he  was  taken 
was  struck  by  lightning  on  the  very  day  the  news 
of  Gen.  Arnold's  death  was  received  at  Tarrytown, 
July  31,  1801.  Strange  coincidence!  It  was  a 
white-wood  tree,  and  uncommonly  large,  being  26 
feet  in  circumference  and  111  high. 

Tappan  (W.  S.).  Andre  was  executed  about  a 
mile  from  this  village.  The  spot  where  he  was 
buried  is  still  pointed  out  and  frequently  visited, 
although  his  remains  were  disinterred  a  few  years 
since  and  taken  to  England. 

Nyack,  a  small  village  a  little  north  of  Tappan. 

HAflTJCRSTRAW  (W.S.),  a  short  distance  above 
Nyack. 

SiNGsiNG  (E.  S.),  33  miles  from  the  city.  The 
new  State  Prison  is  located  on  tlie  bank  of  the  river 
at  this  place.  It  was  commenced  in  1825,  and  has 
been  tenanted  nearly  6  years.  Its  dimensions  are 
44  by  480  feet :  it  has  a  doubly  row  of  cells,  built 


-mHHl^^. 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


19 


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back  to  back,  four  tiers  high,  and  200  in  each  tier ; 
making  in  ail  800  cells.  It  is  built  of  hewn  marble, 
quarried  on  the  premises.  The  whole  work  was 
performed  by  the  convicts.  They  are  now  building, 
and  have  nearly  finished,  two  extensive  wings,  which 
extend  from  the  main  building  to  the  wharf.  The 
discipline  is  that  of  the  Auburn  prison,  probably  the 
best  now  in  use. 

Sleepy  Hollow  (E.  S.),  a  little  above  Singsing. 
This  is  the  place  where  Washington  Irving  locates 
the  scene  of  his  tale  of  the  same  name,  in  the 
*'  Sketch  Book." 

Grassy  Point  (W.  S.),  1  mile  south  of  Stony 
Point.  There  is  a  fine  mansion  here  belonging  to 
Mr.  Piatt,  of  New^-York. 

Stony  Point  (W.  S.),  40  miles  from  New- York,  is 
a  bold,  rough  promontory,  with  a  lighthouse  on  its 
summit.  It  was  fortified  during  the  American  war, 
and  taken  from  Gen.  Wayne  by  the  British  in  1778; 
but  retaken  the  same  year. 

Verplanck's  Point  (E.  S.),  opposite,  was  also  the 
site  of  a  fort.  There  is  a  splendid  mansion,  lawn, 
arbour,  &c.  situated  upon  it,  and  occupied  by  Mr. 
Philip  Verplanck. 

*Caldwell's  (W.  S.),  44  miles  from  New- York. 
This  is  the  first  landing  of  the  steamboats.  Here 
the  Highlands  commence. 

Peekskill  Village  is  directly  opposite  Caldwell's.* 

Antony'^s  Nose  (E.  S.).  The  mountain  of  this  name 
is  not,  as  is  generally  supposed,  the  one  that  exhibits 
a  ■'^semblance  of  the  profile  of  a  human  face.  It  is 
directly  opposite  Fort  Montgo-mery  Creek.  Its  eleva- 
tion is  1228  feet  from  the  level  of  the  river,  and  its 

♦  Enoch  Crosby,  the  original  of  Cooper's  "  Harvey  Birch,"  in 
the  novel  of"  The  Spy,"  is  now  living,  and  resides  near  Peekskill. 


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name  is'derived,  according  to  Irving,  from  the  nose 
of  Antony  Van  Corlaer.      The   christening  of   the 
mount  is  described  in  the  story  of  the  Dutch  gov- 
ernor's lirst  voyage    up  the    Hudson,    as   follows : 
"  Just  at  this  moment  the  illustrious  sun,  breaking  in 
all  his  splendour  from  behind  one  of  the  high  cliffs 
of  the   Highlands,  did  dart  one  of  his  most  potent 
beams  full  upon  the  refulgent  nose  of  the  sounder  of 
brass.      The  reflection  of  which  shot  straightway 
down,  hissing  hot  into  the  water,  and  killed  a  mighty 
sturgeon  that  was  sporting  beside  the  vessel !    When 
this  astonishing  miracle  came  to  be  made  known  to 
Peter  Stuyvesant  (the  governor),  he,  as  may  well  be 
supposed,  marvelled  exceedingly;  and  as  a  monu- 
ment thereof,  gave  the  name  of  Antonyms  Nose  to  a 
stout  promontory  in  the  neighbourhood,  and   it  has 
continued  to  be  called  Antony's  Nose  ever  since." 
From  here  to  Fort  Montgomery^  which  is  now  in 
ruins,  on  the  opposite  side,  a  large  boom  and  chain 
was  extended  during  the  revolutionary  war,  which 
cost  about  70,000  pounds  sterling.     It  was  partly 
destroyed  by  Gen.  Sir  Henry  Clinton  in  October,  1777. 
After  proceeding  about  2  miles  farther,  an  exten- 
sive range  of  mills  are  seen  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river.     These  are  supplied  by  a  stream  called  But- 
termilk  Falls.    This  is  a  beautiful  little  cascade,  which 
comes  foaming  and  tumbling  down  the  rocks,  and 
has  a  milk-white   appearance.     The  mills  arc  the 
property  of  Mr.  Lydig.     Richard  Arden's  mansion 
is  seen  directly  opposite   Buttermilk  Falls.     This 
gentleman  has  an  immense  tract  at  this  place,  on 
which  is  situate  the  "  Beverly  House,"*  a  quarter  of 

*  Dnrinpr  the  Revolution,  this  hoiiso  was  tho  propprty  of  Chnrlos 
Beverly  Robinson  (a  colonel  in  the  British  army,  though  an 
American  by  birth),  but  in  possession  of  the  Americans  and  the 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


21 


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a  mile  south  of  his  dwelling, — not  in  sight  from  the 
river.  Three  miles  above,  the  location  of  the  cele- 
brated United  States^  Military  School  comes  in  view. 


quarters  of  Gen.  Benedict  Arnold,  who  infamously  attempted  to 
tetray  his  country  to  her  enemies  in  the  year  1780.  His  plot 
was  discovered  in  time  to  avert  the  fatal  blow,  but  not  to  secure 
the  traitor.  Col.  Beverly  and  Major  Andre  were  sent  by  Sir 
Henrv  Clinton,  the  British  commander,  on  board  the  sloop  of 
war  Vulture,  at  New- York,  with  orders  to  proceed  up  the  river 
and  have  an  interview  with  Arnold.  They  anchored  opposite 
Fort  Montgomery.  Andre  went  to  Beverly  House,  saw  the 
traitor,  and  received  the  draughts  of  all  the  works  at  West  Point 
and  the  passes  leading  to  them.  Previous  to  this  time,  Arnold 
had  never  intrusted  a  paper  out  of  his  hands  which  might  expose 
him  to  detection ;  but  now  saw  no  danger  in  confiding  these  to 
Andre,  who  was  to  re-embark  directly  on  board  the  sloop  and 
make  sail  for  New- York.  Andre  returned  alone  to  the  beach, 
whence  a  boat  was  to  convey  him  to  the  Vulture ;  but  this  ar- 
rangement was  defeated  by  an  obstacle  wholly  unexpected, — 
the  sloop  having  weighed  anchor  and  moved  down  to  Teller's 
Point,  which  divides  Tappan  and  Haverstraw  bays.  This  move- 
ment having  excited  the  suspicions  of  the  rowers  of  the  boat  in 
which  Andre  was  to  return,  caused  them  peremptorily  to  refuse 
taking  him  on  board.  Finding  all  entreaties  vain,  he  returned 
to  Arnold,  and  consulted  him  on  the  propriety  of  urging  Mie  men 
to  proceed.  Arnold  advised  him  to  assume  a  disguise  and  return 
by  land ;  and  wished  to  withdraw  the  papers  intrusted  to  him, 
thinking  it  hazardous  to  send  them  by  land.  To  this,  however, 
Andre  refused  to  accede,  as  he  was  desirous  of  showing  Clinton 
with  what  punctuaUty  he  had  executed  his  mission.  He  dis- 
guised himself  in  a  dress  provided  by  a  man  named  Joshua 
Smith,  and,  after  secreting  the  letters  in  his  boots,  proceeded  on 
his  journey,  accompanied  by  Smith ;  each  had  a  passport  from 
Arnold  "  tc  go  to  the  lines  of  White  Plains,  or  lower  if  the 
bearer  thinks  proper ;  he  being  on  public  business."  When  they 
arrived  in  sight  of  the  ground  occupied  by  the  English,  Smith, 
seeing  no  one,  said,  **  You  are  safe ;  good-by,"  and  returned  at 
full  speed.  Andre  proceeded,  and  was  about  entering  the  village 
of  Tarrytown,  when  he  was  accosted  by  three  men,  arrested, 
searched,  and  the  fatal  papers  found  on  him.  Arnold  soon  heard 
of  his  arrest,  immediately  ordered  his  wife  to  burn  his  papers, 
flew  to  his  barge  (which  was  always  ready  manned  and  lay  at 
the  small  dock  opposite  Buttermilk  Falls),  and  ordered  the 
men  to  row  him  down  to  the  Vulture,  He  arrived  on  board  safe, 
and  gave  th'  men  privilege  to  remain  or  return  with  the  barge. 
They  chose  iie  latter.    He  was  elevated  to  the  rank  of  briga- 


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•  *West  Point  (W.  S.).  West  Point  is  celebrated 
as  the  theatre  of  several  important  events  during  the 
revolutionary  struggle,  the  remembrance  of  which 
will  cause  every  feeling  heart  to  glow  with  patriotism. 
The  Military  Academy,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Col.  Thayer,  has  reached  a  celebrity  alike  creditable 
to  him  and  honourable  to  our  country.  It  was  es- 
tablished in  1802,  and  the  number  of  students  is 
limited  to  250.  Col.  R.  E.  De  Russey  is  the  present 
able  and  judicious  superintendent  and  commandant. 
The  cadets  parade  every  evening  at  6  o'clock,  which 
exhibition,  together  with  the  "  eloquent  music"  dis- 
coursed by  the  hand,  is  calculated  to  excite  the  ad- 
miration of  every  visiter.  On  approaching  the  point, 
the  first  building  noticed  is  the  Hospital,  which  is  a 
fine  stone  edifice,  with  a  piazza  in  front,  and  an  ex- 
tensive wing  at  each  end.  The  next  objects  worthy 
of  attention  are  the  imins  of  the  venerable  Fort  Put- 
nam, which  occupy  a  majestic  and  commanding  situ- 
ation. Near  the  river  is  a  kind  of  niche  in  the  cUlT, 
accommodated  with  a  number  of  benches.  This  is 
called  Kosciusko^s  Garden.  Clusters  of  lilacs  are 
still  growing,  which  are  said  to  have  been  planted  by 
the  Polish  patriot.  There  is  also  a  spring  of  very 
fine  water,  over  which  the  cadets  have  placed  a  mar- 
ble reservoir,  in  which  the  water  boils  up  with  fine 
effect.  It  was  formerly  diflficult  of  access,  but  is 
now  accessible  by  means  of  a  flight  of  stone  steps. 


i 


dier-general  in  the  British  army,  which  he  held  until  June  14, 
1801,  when  lie  died,  at  Gloucester-Place,  London, 

"Unwept,  unhonour'd,  and  unsung.** 

Andre  was  tried  as  a  spy,  convicted,  and  suffered  an  ignomini- 
ous death,  which  must  have  been  preferable  to  the  life  of  Arnold, 
rendered  miserable  by  the  contempt  of  those  for  whom  he  had 
sacrificed  his  friends,  his  home,  his  country,  and  his  honour. 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


23 


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A  short  distance  from  this  place  Kosciusko's  monu- 
ment is  seen:  it  is  built  of  fine  hewn  marble;  the 
inscription  on  it  is — "  Kosciusko.  Erected  by  the 
corps  of  Cadets,  1828."  After  turning  the  point, 
the  Hotel  comes  in  view :  it  is  a  fine  spacious  house, 
and  kept  by  Mr.  W.  B.  Cozzens,  a  gentleman  long 
and  advantageously  known  to  the  visiters  of  West 
Point.  During  the  war,  a  chevaux-de-frize  was  ex- 
tended across  from  the  wharf  to  Magazine  Point,  on 
Constitution  Island,  to  prevent  vessels  from  passing 
further  up  the  river. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  is  a  monument  la 
the  memory  of  a  cadet  who  was  killed  by  the  burst- 
ing of  a  cannon.  The  names  of  several  cadets  are 
inscribed  upon  it.  A  short  distance  further,  at  the 
water's  edge,  is  a  small  cove,  where  is  seen  a  small 
white  house.  This  house  is  on  the  site  of  the  build- 
ing in  which  Gen.  Washington  held  his  head-quarters 
during  a  part  of  the  Revolution.  After  proceeding 
about  a  mile  beyond  the  landing,  by  taking  a  retro- 
spect, the  traveller  has  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
Military  Academy,  and  all  the  buildings  appertaining 
thereto.  There  are  nine  brick  buildings  for  the 
officers  and  professors.  The  view  of  the  Point  from 
this  distance  is  highly  imposing.  Mr.  Samuel  Gov- 
erneur  has  a  beautiful  residence  opposite  West  Point. 
The  Highland  School  is  located  half  a  mile  north. 
It  was  commenced  in  1830,  and  is  now  becoming 
very  popular.  ^,       ,.    ,    ^^^ 

The  Crowds  Nest  (W.  S.)  is  the  first  mountain 
north  of  West  Point,  and  has  an  indenture  on  its 
summit  resembling  a  nest :  hence  its  name.  Eleva- 
tion 1418  feet.  ^ 

Cold  Spring  (E.  S.),  a  small  village  about  2  miles 
noith  of  West  Point,  on  the  opposite  side,  derive* 


t  ri 


24 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSOK* 


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its  name  from  a  spring  in  the  vicinity,  which  supplied 
the  troops  with  water  during  the  war.  The  West 
Point  Foundry^  under  the  superintendence  of  Gov- 
erneur  Kemble,  Esq.,  is  situated  at  this  place.  This 
establishment,  for  the  manufacture  of  cannon  and  ma- 
chinery, comprehends  two  blast-furnaces,  three  air- 
furnaces,  three  cupola-furnaces,  a  boring-mill  of 
nine  gun  beds,  and  one  for  mortars  and  cylinders, 
with  lathes,  &c. ;  three  water-wheels,  one  of  iron, 
36  feet  in  diameter,  with  extensive  shops,  and  a 
steam-engine  in  Beach-street,  New- York,  for  the 
manufacture  of  steam-engines  and  other  machinery. 
The  whole  establishment  employs  daily  from  460  to 
500  workmen. 

Butter  Hill  is  the  last  o2  the  range  on  the  west 
side.  Its  elevation  is  1529  feet,  gi'eater  than  any  of 
the  Highlands  except  the  "  High  Peak,^  which  is 
1689  feet.  At  the  foot  of  it  can  be  seen  Putnam's 
Rock,  which  was  rolled  from  the  top  in  1778  by  a 
party  of  soldiers,  directed  by  Gen.  Putnam.  An  in- 
dividual, rather  visionary  than  otherwise,  of  the  name 
of  Newbold,  has  been  endeavouring  for  a  number  of 
years  to  establish  three  cities  on  the  top  of  this  moun-» 
tain.  Their  names  are  Faith,  Hope,  and  Chanty. 
He  intends  constructing  a  railway  from  the  river  up 
the  mountain,  with  an  engine  stationed  at  the  summit, 
by  which  merchandise,  &c.  will  be  drawn  up  for  the 
use  of  the  inhabitants.     ^    - 

Break-neck  Hill  is  the  last  of  the  range  of  High- 
lands on  the  east  side ;  it  is  a  very  rough  craggy 
mountain.  When  directly  opposite,  the  profile  of  a 
human  face,  called  "  Turk's  Face,"  can  be  seen  on 
the  point  of  rock  which  projects  farthest  southward. 

PolopeWs  Island.  This  is  the  name  of  the  small 
round  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river  at  this  place. 


Ir 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


25 


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This  island  is  the  residence  of  nothing  save  snakes, 
which  are  found  in  immense  numbers  ;  having  never 
been  subjected  to  the  influence  of  a  tutelar  saint, 
with  snake-compelling  powers  like  those  of  the  re- 
nowned St.  Patrick. 

Cornwall  (W.  S.).  A  small  village  4  miles  south 
of  Newburgh. 

New-Windsor  (W.  S.)  is  2  miles  south  of  New- 
burgh. There  are  two  docks  at  this  place :  a  few 
yards  back  from  the  south  dock  is  seen  a  low  house 
with  three  dormant  windows ;  in  1774  this  was  the 
domicil  of  Mr.  Ellison ;  Gen.  Washington  resided 
with  his  family  most  part  of  that  winter  and  held  his 
quarters  there  ;  a  short  distance  back  of  this,  on  the 
eminence,  is  a  beautiful  mansion  belonging  to  Mr. 
Bullus  ;  from  this  place  there  is  a  delightful  prospect 
for  20  miles  around. 

*Newburgh  (W.  S.).  Newburgh  was  first  settled 
by  some  emigrants  from  Palatine,  in  the  year  1708, 
and  is  now  a  place  of  some  considerable  magnitude, 
containing  a  population  of  about  4000.  Being  situ- 
ated on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  it  probably  makes  a 
better  appearance  from  the  river  than  from  any  other 
point.  A  stage  runs  from  this  place  to  Ithaca  daily. 
A  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  village  stands  the 
old  stone  house  in  which  Washington  held  his  quar- 
ters at  the  time  when  the  celebrated  "  Newburgh 
Letters"  made  their  appearance. 

Presqii^  Isle,  nearly  opposite  Newburgh,  is  the 
residence  of  Mr.  —  Denning.  This  situation  affords 
a  most  delightful  prospect  of  country,  and  its  gar- 
dens, shrubbery,  and  forest-trees  are  very  charming. 

FisHKiLL  (E.  S.)  i&  directly  opposite  Newburgh. 
The  MaUeawan  Cotton  Factory  is  situated  near  this 
))lace.     It  belongs  to  the  Messrs.  Schenck,  of  New- 


S6 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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York.  The  Highland  Grove  Gymnasium  was  estab* 
lishfid  at  Fishkill  in  1829,  by  Messrs.  Kent  and  Jone», 
and  is  now  in  a  very  flourishing  condition. 

Low  Point  (E.  S.).  There  is  a  small  cluster  of 
white  buildings  on  this  point.  It  is  2  miles  above 
FishkilL 

Dans  Kamer  Point  (W.  S.),  5^  miles  above  New- 
burgh,  is  a  rough  peninsula.  Knickerbocker ,  speak- 
ing of  Gov.  Stuyvesant's  passage  up  the  river,  says, 
"  Even  now  I  have  it  on  the  point  of  my  pen  to  re- 
late, how  his  crew  was  most  horribly  frightened,  on 
going  on  shore  above  the  Highlands,  by  a  gang  of 
merry  roistering  devils,  frisking  and  curvetting  on  a 
huge  flat  rock  which  projected  into  the  river,  and 
which  is  called  the  DuyvelVs  Dans  Kamer  to  this 
very  day." 

The  splendid  mansion  with  a  wing  at  each  end,  on 
the  brow  of  the  hill  just  below  this  place,  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Mr.  Armstrong. 

Hampton  (W.  S.),  69  miles  from  New- York. 

Hamburgh  is  directly  opposite  Hampton.  The 
creek  which  empties  into  the  river  at  this  point  is 
called  Wappinger's  Creek.  One  mile  and  a  half  above 
this  place,  on  a  projecting  point,  is  seen  a  fine  brick 
building,  with  an  arbour  on  the  hilL  This  was  the 
residence  of  George  Clinton,  formerly  Governor  of 
this  State,  and  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  New- 
York  as  a  statesman,  a  soldier,  and  a  good  citizen. 
Gen.  James  Tallmadge  is  the  present  occupant. 

Jew's  Creek  (W.  S.)  is  1^  miles  above  Hampton^ 
Brick-manufacturing  is  carried  on  at  this  place  very 
extensively. 

Milton  (W.  S.),  72  miles  from  New- York.  The 
village  opposite  is  called  Barnegat.  The  shore  be- 
tween Hampton  and  Milton  is  literally  covered  with 
lime-kilns. 


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PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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The  beautiful  mansion  of  Col.  Livingston  is  situated 
in  delightful  grounds  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  about 
1  mile  south  of  Poughkeepsie. 

*PouGHKEEPSiE  (E.  S.)  is  located  about  1  mile 
from  the  landing.  This  place  was  originally  settled 
by  some  Dutch  families,  about  the  year  1735,  and 
derived  its  name  from  an  Indian  word,  Apokeepsing, 
signifying  safe  harbour.  It  was  incorporated  as  a 
village  in  1801,  and  now  contains  a  population  of 
more  than  5000.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  pleasant  place ; 
the  buildings  and  grounds  of  its  inhabitants  display- 
ing much  taste.  Its  importance  as  a  river-town  is 
very  considerable,  having  an  extensive  back  country 
to  support  its  commercial  prosperity.  The  shore  is 
rough  and  bold,  and  the  steamboat  landing  is  not 
seen  until  the  boat  reaches  the  dock,  in  consequence 
of  a  high  rocky  projection,  called  the  "  Call  Rock." 
There  is  a  very  fine  view,  for  several  miles  north  and 
south,  from  the  top  of  this  rock.  There  are  two  fine 
hotels  in  the  village,  equal  to  any  between  the  cities 
of  New- York  and  Albany. 

New  Paltz  (W.  S.).  This  village  is  opposite 
Poughkeepsie. 

*Hyde  Park  (E.  S.).  A  large  tract  of  land  at  this 
place  is  owned  by  Dr.  David  Hosack,  an  eminent 
physician  from  New- York,  who  Las  lately  retired 
from  the  city  to  this  delightful  part  of  the  country. 
His  splendid  mansion  is  in  sight  from  the  river. 
There  is  a  park  for  deer,  arbours,  lawn,  and  a  very 
extensive  hot-house,  which  contains  specimens  of 
almost  all  our  domestic  plants,  together  with  a  great 
variety  from  other  countries. 

Half  a  mile  above  Dr.  Hosack's  is  seen  Judge 
Pendleton's  mansion ;  and  two  miles  further  is  that 
of  Hamilton  Wilkes,  Esq.     Dr.  Rowan's  seat  is  di- 


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PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


rectly  across  the  river  from  Hyde  Park.  Three 
miles  above,  Beaver  Creek  empties  itself  into  the 
Hudson. 

Esopus  Island  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek. 

Leicis^s  Dock  (E.  S.).  After  proceeding  a  few  miles 
further  and  turning  a  point  of  land,  a  small  dock  is 
seen,  and  a  splendid  brick  building  a  few  yards  in 
the  rear.  This  is  the  residence  of  Gen.  Morgan 
Lewis,  formerly  Governor  of  the  State  of  New- 
York.  A.  few  yards  above  Governor  Lewis's  is  the 
beautiful  mansion  of  James  Duane  Livingston,  Esq. 

Staatsburgh  (E.  S.).  The  beautiful  mansion  on 
the  hill,  at  this  place,  is  the  residence  of  James 
Thompson,  Esq. 

*Rhinebeck  (E.  S.).  This  is  a  small  landing,  whence 
a  sloop  sails  twice  a  week  with  produce  for  New- 
York.  The  village  is  3  miles  in  the  interior.  This 
place  affords  a  fine  distant  view  of  the  Catskill 
Mountains  and  the  Mountain  House. 

*  Columbus  Point  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  The  junction  of  the  Waalkill  Creek  with  the 
Hudson  River  is  at  this  place.  The  terminating  point 
of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  is  about  4  miles 
inland,  where  it  empties  into  the  Waalkill.  The 
canal  at  the  surface  is  36  feet  in  breadth  and  4  feet 
deep.  The  locks  are  72  feet  in  length  and  9  feet 
wide.  The  water  rises  in  them  from  8  to  1 1  feet. 
Two  packet  boats  are  in  operation  on  the  canal,  and 
leave  Bolton,  one  and  a  quarter  miles  from  Columbus 
Point,  every  Monday  and  Thursday,  for  Honesdale, 
the  head  of  the  canal,  whence  passengers  are  taken 
to  the  coal-mines  on  the  rail-road.  Stages  are  in 
readiness  at  Honesdale  to  convey  passengers  to 
Utica,  Binghampton,  Owego,  and  Ithaca. 

Kingston  is  a  pretty  village,  located  on  a  beautiful 


, 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


29 


' 


and  extensive  plain,  3  miles  inland.  It  was  burnt 
by  the  British,  October  25,  1777. 

Magdalen  Island  (E.  S.),  8  miles  above  Rhinebeck, 
is  the  property  of  Dr.  Mastin.  His  residence  is 
handsomely  located  on  the  south  end  of  the  island. 
He  has  an  arbour  "  founded  on  a  rock,"  from  which 
a  splendid  view  of  the  river  is  afforded  both  north 
and  south. 

ShuUz^s  Dock  (E.  S.).  A  sloop  sails  from  this  place 
to  New-York  once  a  week. 

Lower  Red  Hook  (E.  S.).  This  was  formerly  a 
place  of  considerable  business,  but  within  a  few 
years  it  has  all  been  diverted  to  the  landing  3  miles 
above.  Just  south  of  the  landing  is  a  neat,  delight- 
fully-situated building,  with  a  small  grove  in  front, 
which  is  decorated  with  an  arbour ;  and  a  number 
of  rustic  seats  are  placed  about  under  the  trees.  It 
is  the  residence  of  Capt.  Brown,  of  the  United 
States'  army.  A  few  yards  north  of  the  dock  is  the 
seat  of  J.  R.  Livingston,  Esq.  The  mansion  is  large 
and  splendid.  The  mansions  of  J.  C.  Stevens,  J.  C, 
Montgomery,  and  K.  S.  Livingston  are  situated  be- 
tween Lower  and  Upper  Red  Hook. 

Glasgow  Village  (W.  S.),  Similes  above  Lower 
Red  Hook  landing.  A  short  distance  above  here  is 
the  residence  of  Rev.  Mr.  Overbagh. 

•Upper  Red  Hook  (E.  S.).  The  village  is  about 
6  miles  from  the  landing,  in  the  interior.  There  is 
a  hotel,  a  number  of  stores,  storehouses,  &c.  at  the 
landing. 

The  mansion  south  of  the  dock  is  the  residence 
of  Robert  Tillotson,  Esq.  The  first  mansion  north 
of  the  south  landing  belongs  to  John  Swift  Livingr 
ston,  Esq.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  locations 
on  the  Hudson.     A  few  yards  above  is  the  residencp 


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PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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of  Mr.  Elmendorf,  also  in  a  very  eligible  situation. 
After  proceeding  2  miles  further,  the  traveller  has  a 
vievr  of  the  splendid  brick  mansion  of  R.  L.  Living- 
ston, Esq.,  formerly  the  residence  of  Chancellor  Liv- 
ingston. A  large  and  well-stocked  hot-house  is 
attached  to  the  south  end  of  the  building.  E.  P. 
Livingston,  Esq.'s,  mansion  is  a  few  yards  farther 
north. 

Ury  (W.  S.),  opposite  Upper  Red  Hook  landing 
—Country-seat  of  Henry  Barclay,  Esq. 

Saugerties  Village,  situated  about  1  mile  west 
from  the  confluence  of  the  Esopus  and  Hudson 
rivers.  The  interjutting  hills  obstruct  the  view  of 
the  most  considerable  portion  of  it  from  the  latter 
stream.  It  is  only  of  seven  or  eight  years'  growth, 
and  at  present  contains  very  extensive  manufactories 
of  bar-iron,  paper,  and  white  lead ;  besides  many 
other  of  minor  importance ;  a  population  of  3000 
souls,  and  a  water-power  still  unemployed,  which 
promises  a  corresponding  continuance  of  prosperity 
for  many  years  to  come.  This  village  chiefly  owes 
its  origin  and  importance  to  the  exertions  and  enter- 
prise of  the  proprietor  of  the  seat  last  named.  There 
are  falls  of  about  45  feet  perpendicular  height  on 
the  Esopus  River,  at  this  village,  occasioned  by  natu- 
ral and  artificial  obstructions,  which  flood  the  water 
back  two  or  three  miles,  forming  a  most  beautiful 
sheet  or  lake.  Further  up,  at  the  distance  of  about 
a  mile,  are  the  great  falls  of  the  Esopus,  which,  to- 
gether with  the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  adjacent 
scenery,  present  claims  for  the  gratification  of  the 
curious  of  no  inferior  order.  The  roads  in  the 
neighbourhood,  during  the  temperate  and  bland  sea- 
son of  the  year,  are  generally  good,  and  that  in  par- 
ticular which  leads  to  the  Pine  Orchard  through  Kau- 


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PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


31 


terskill  Clove.  The  scenery  along  this  clove  is  truly 
alpine  and  unsurpassed  by  any  of  the  same  character 
within  the  United  States.  Fishing  affords  excellent 
sport,  particularly  for  trout,  v^rhich  are  taken  in  great 
quantities  a  few  miles  back  in  the  country.  There 
is  a  good  hotel,  and  carriages  and  horses  for  the 
convenience  of  sojourners ;  and  the  climate  being 
healthy,  there  are  few  places  equally  accessible  to 
the  citizens  of  New-York  which  offer  greater  induce- 
ments for  a  temporary  residence  during  the  summer 
months. 

Bristol  (W.  S.),  Two  sloops  sail  from  this  village 
to  New- York. 

Trumpore's  Landing  (W.  S.).  There  are  four  or 
five  houses  at  this  place :  it  is  the  next  above  Bristol. 

Oak  Hill  (E.  S.).  The  large  store-house  and  dock 
at  this  place  belong  to  Harman  Livingston,  Esq. 
His  splendid  mansion  is  situated  on  the  hill  just 
south  of  the  landing. 

Ramshom  Creek  is  seen  winding  through  the 
marsh  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  Catskill 
dock. 

*Catskill  (W.  S.)  contains  a  population  of  about 
2500  souls.  This  is  the  landing-place  for  those  who 
visit  the  Catskill  Mountain  House.  A  stage  leaves 
Catskill  for  Ithaca  every  morning  at  7  o'clock,  to 
meet  the  steamboat  on  Cayuga  Lake,  which  runs  to 
Cayuga  bridge,  where  stages  are  in  readiness  to  cori- 
vey  passengers  immediately  to  Rochester.  Passen- 
gers for  Ithaca  generally  land  at  this  place  or  New- 
burgh. 

Catskill  Creek  empties  into  the  Hudson  at  the 
south  side  of  the  dock.  It  is  a  very  considerable 
stream,  and  fonns  a  harbour  for  the  sloops  that  sail 
from  this  place.  •  %    :  v   ^ 


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PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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Stages  are  always  at  the  dock  on  the  arrival  of 
the  7  o'clock  boats  from  New- York,  ready  to  take 
parties  to  the  Mountain.  The  distance  by  the  road 
is  12  miles,  although  in  a  direct  line  it  is  only  8. 
The  time  taken  in  performing  the  journey  is  about 
four  hours  in  going  and  a  little  over  two  hours  in  re- 
turning. The  road  is  very  fine  and  level  for  9  miles, 
when  the  ascent  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain  com- 
mences by  a  winding  road,  which  leads  to  the  west 
end  of  the  Pine  Orchard ;  for  the  following  descrip- 
tion of  which,  we  are  indebted  to  Mr.  N.  G.  Elliot, 
of  Catskill. 

Pine  Orchard. — Few  places  of  fashionable  re- 
sort present  stronger  attractions  to  the  tourist  than 
the  Pine  Orchard.  A  few  years  ago  this  dehghtful 
retreat  was  almost  unknown,  and  rarely  visited,  but 
by  the  hardy  hunter  in  pursuit  of  the  deer,  the  bear, 
and  the  wolf,  who  had  hitherto  maintained  undis- 
turbed possession  of  its  cliffs  and  caverns.  At  length 
the  tale  of  the  extent  and  beauty  Qf  the  prospect  and 
the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  drew  the  attention  of 
individuals  of  taste ;  and  the  glowing  descriptions 
they  gave  of  its  surpassing  magnificence  effectually 
roused  and  fixed  the  attention  of  the  public.  Each 
successive  season  the  number  of  visiters  has  in- 
creased, till  the  temporary  buildings  at  first  erected 
for  their  accommodation  have  given  place  to  a  splen- 
did hotel,  140  feet  in  length  and  four  stories  high. 
This  establishment  has  been  erected  by  the  Moun- 
tain Association,  at  an  expense  of  about  $22,000. 
It  occupies  the  eastern  verge  of  a  table  of  rock  some 
six  acres  in  extent,  and  about  3000  feet  above  the 
river.  An  excellent  line  of  stages  is  established  to 
this  place  from  Catskill,  a  distance  of  12  miles. 
The  ride  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  not  parties- 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


33 


larly  interesting,  but  as  you  ascend  every  moment 
developes  something  magnificent  and  new.  The 
sides  of  the  mountain,  steep  and  seemingly  inacces- 
sible, tower  far  above  you,  clothed  in  the  rich  deep 
foliage  peculiar  to  such  regions ;  while  below  your 
path  a  clear  stream  runs,  one  moment  bubbling  over 
its  rocky  bed,  and  the  next  leaping  down  its  cascades 
to  the  valley.  The  road  is  extremely  circuitous,  and 
so  completely  hemmed  in  by  the  luxuriant  growth  of 
forest  trees,  that  the  traveller  is  for  a  long  time  unable 
to  judge  of  his  progress  in  the  ascent  by  any  view 
of  the  country  he  has  left.  At  an  abrupt  angle  of 
the  road,  however,  he  obtains  at  once  a  full  view  of 
the  Mountain  House — perched  like  the  eyrie  of  an 
eagle  among  the  clouds — or  rather  like  the  enchanted 
castle  in  a  fairy  tale  ;  seemingly  inaccessible  to  mor- 
tal foot,  still  it  reminds  him  of  such  terrestrial  com- 
forts as  are  sure  to  be  acceptable  after  exercise  in 
the  pure  air  of  the  mountains.  Another  turn  and  it 
again  disappears,  and  the  excited  traveller  next  finds 
himself  on  the  level  rock  of  the  Pine  Orchard,  and 
approaching  the  hotel  from  the  rear.  A  moment 
more  and  he  is  on  the  edge  of  the  precipice  in  front 
of  the  noble  building.  At  first  glance  he  would  be 
led  to  believe,  with  Leather  Stocking,  that  creation 
was  all  before  him,  and  he  is  forced  to  admit  that  his 
wildest  anticipations  are  more  than  realized.  The 
view  from  Table  Rock  has  been  compared,  by  those 
who  have  seen  both,  to  that  from  the  summit  of  Ve- 
suvius over  the  Bay  of  Naples  and  the  adjacent 
coasts.  In  features  they  are  unlike  ;  but  in  char- 
acter the  same.  From  this  lofty  emmence  all  in- 
equalities of  surface  are  overlooked.  A  seemingly 
endless  succession  of  woods  and  waters,  farms  and 
villages,  towns  and  cities,  are  spread  out  as  upon  a 


'Mil 


34 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


■  n  i 


boundless  map.  Far  beyond  rise  the  Taghkanick 
Mountains,  and  still  further  the  highlands  of  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts.  A  little  to  the  left,  and 
at  a  still  greater  distance,  the  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont  stretch  away  to  the  north,  and  their  blue 
summits  and  the  blue  sky  mingle  and  melt  together. 
The  beautiful  Hudson,  studded  with  islands,  appears 
narrowed  in  distance,  with  steamboats  almost  con- 
stantly in  sight ;  while  vessels  of  every  description, 
spreading  their  white  canvass  to  the  breeze,  are 
moving  rapidly  over  its  surface,  or  idly  loitering  in 
the  calm.  These  may  be  traced  to  the  distance  of 
nearly  70  miles  with  the  naked  eye ;  and  again  at 
times  all  below  is  enveloped  in  dark  cloud  and  roll- 
ing mist,  which,  driven  about  by  the  wind,  is  con- 
tinually assuming  new,  wild,  and  fantastic  forms. 
The  whole  produces  an  effect  on  the  beholder  un- 
equalled by  that  of  any  other  scene  in  this  country. 
The  gazer  turns  from  the  sight,  compelled  to  acknow- 
ledge that  all  is  beautiful  and  all  is  new.  Visiters, 
who  have  here  assembled  from  various  motives,  all 
depart  satisfied  and  delighted.  The  student,  pale 
and  exhausted  with  study  and  confinement,  has  for 
a  while  forsaken  his  books,  and  found  new  vigour 
in  the  "  medicinal  freshness"  of  the  mountain  air. 
The  idler  and  the  invalid  have  been  well  rewarded 
for  their  toils  ;  the  one  by  the  accession  of  health 
and  strength,  tlie  brightened  eye  and  quickened 
pulse,  and  the  other  by  obtaining  excitement,  exer- 
cise, and  pleasure,  in  exchange  for  the  irksome 
monotony  of  the  world  below.  All  are  for  a  while 
freed  from  the  idle  ceremonials  of  life,  and  permitted 
to  hold  unrestrained  converse  with  Nature  and  her 
^vorks. 

From  the  Pine  Orchard  a  ride  or  walk  of  li  miles 
brings  you  to  the 


PASSAGE    LP    THE    HUDSON. 


35 


Cauterskill  Falls. — Here  the  outlet  of  two  in- 
considerable lakes  leaps  down  a  perpendicular  fall 
of  180  feet;  then  glides  away  through  a  channel  it 
has  worn  in  the  rock  to  a  second  fall  of  80  feet. 
Below  this  it  is  lost  in  the  dark  ravine  through  which 
it  finds  its  way  to  the  valley  of  the  Catskill.  The 
waterfall,  bold  as  it  is,  forms  however  but  one  of  the 
many  interesting  features  of  this  scene.  Standing 
on  the  edge  of  the  first  fall,  you  look  down  into  a 
dreary  chasm  whose  steep  sides,  covered  with  the 
dark  ivy  and  the  thick  foliage  of  summer,  seem  like 
a  green  bed  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  waters* 
Making  a  circuit  from  this  spot,  and  descending  about 
midway  of  the  first  fall,  you  enter  a  footpath  which 
conducts  into  an  immense  natural  amphitheatre  be- 
hind the  waterfall.  The  effect  of  this  scene  is  im- 
posing beyond  description.  Far  over  your  head  pro- 
jects a  smooth  surface  of  rock,  forming  a  magnifi- 
cent ceiling  to  this  amphitheatre.  In  front  is  the 
ever-falling  water,  and  beyond,  the  wild  mountain- 
dell  with  the  clear  blue  sky  above  it :  the  scene  can 
only  be  appreciated  on  the  spot.  The  tourist  should 
bear  in  mind  that  the  falls  must  be  seen  from  below 
to  produce  the  best  effect,  and  that  the  view  from  the 
Pine  Orchard  is  much  finer  from  3  o'clock  P.M.  till 
sunset,  than  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

Coaches  leave  the  Mountain  every  morning  at  7 
o'clock,  and  arrive  in  time  to  take  the  boat  that 
leaves  Albany  at  7  o'clock  for  New- York.  They 
also  leave  in  the  afternoon,  and  arrive  in  time  for  the 
day  boat  for  Albany,  and  the  night  boat  for  New- 
York. 

♦Hudson  (E.  S.),  was  first  founded  in  1784,  by  30 
individuals,  emigrants  from  Providence,  R.  I.,  and  is 
now  quite  a  large  and  important  city ;  the  only  one 


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36 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


between  New- York  and  Albany.     Its  population  is 
about  6000.     It  is  situated  on  an  elevated  plain,  and 
the  bank  rises  from  the  river  in  the  form  of  an  ab- 
rupt bluff,  from  50  to  60  feet  in  height.     Hudson  has 
great  advantages  of  water-power  in  the  vicinity,  and 
ranks  as  the  third  in  manufacturing  importance  in 
the  state.     A  company  of  gentlemen  of  this  place 
have  recently  engaged  in  the  whale-fishery.     They 
have  three  ships  employed,  and  are  likely  to  make  it 
profitable.     This  is  the  landing-place  for  those  who 
wish  to  visit  New-Lebanon  Springs  at  the  Shaker 
Settlement,  on  the  road  from  Albany  to  Boston,  about 
25  miles  from  Albany  and  30  from  Hudson.     It  is 
a  delightful  village,  containing  many  attractions  for 
travellers,  among  which  is  a  mineral  spring,  which, 
together  with  the  pleasantness  of  the  country,  ren- 
ders it  the  resort  of  invalids,  and  those  who  seek  for 
health  in  the  fresh  air  of  the  country.     There  are 
here    several   bathing-houses,  well    conducted,   for 
which  the  water  is  well  adapted,  being  less  medicinal 
than  that  of  the  Saratoga  Springs,  but  clear  and  soft. 
In  the  vicinity  of  the  spring  is  the  Shaker  village, 
consisting  of  a  considerable  number  of  plain  wooden 
houses,  painted  and  adorned  in  the  most  unostenta- 
tious manner.     The  peculiar  religious  services  of 
this  i>eople  excite   the  curiosity  of  strangers,  and 
access  to  them  is  easily  obtained.     The  settlement 
consists  of  about  600  persons,  which  "little  com- 
munity, slowly  increasing  in  numbers,  pretty  rapidly 
in  wealth  and  power,  is  a  sort  of  miniature  of  a 
world,  all  of  one  sort,  beyond  which  it  is  deemed 
fatal  to  extend  a  look  or  a  mental  vision !" 

Stages  leave  Boutwell's  hotel  for  the  Springs, 
daily,  at  half-past  7  in  the  morning,  and  in  the  after- 
noon, on  tlie  arrival  of  the  morning  boats  from  New- 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


37 


York.  The  Claverack  Falls  are  9  miles  from  Hud- 
son. No  Stages  run  regularly  to  the  Falls,  but  they 
can  be  procured  at  any  time  at  Bryan's  hotel. 
The  water  falls  1 50  feet  without  interruption,  except 
by  a  small  point  of  rock  which  juts  out  from  the 
main  crag. 

Athens  (W.  S.),  opposite  Hudson,  is  a  large  vil- 
lage, located  on  plains  gently  sloping  towards  the 
river.  A  large  number  of  sloops  sail  from  this 
place.  Numerous  mansions  of  private  gentlemen 
adorn  this  pleasant  village.  A  canal  has  been  cut 
through  a  low  marshy  island  in  the  river,  between 
this  place  and  Hudson,  through  which  a  horse  ferry- 
boat phes  regularly  every  hour. 

CoLUMBiAviLLE  (E.  S.),  4  miles  above  Hudson,  is 
in  sight  from  the  river,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
its  bank.  It  is  situated  on  Kinderhook  Creek,  which 
empties  into  the  river.  There  are  two  cotton-i3ac- 
tories  at  the  village,  owned  by  Messrs.  Wild  and 
Jenkins.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  of  a  wild 
and  romantic  character. 

Four  Mile  Point  (W.  S.),  is  a  high  rocky  point  of 
land  opposite  Columbiaville. 

*CoxsACKiE  Landing  (W.  S.).  This  is  quite  an 
enterprising  place  ;  a  number  of  sloops  sail  for  New- 
York,  daily,  with  the  produce  of  the  interior.  The 
village  is  one  mile  in  rear  of  the  Landing,  and  has 
about  the  same  number  of  buildings.  There  is  a 
handsome  brick  church  at  the  landing,  an  extensive 
hay-press,  and  a  ship-yard  in  which  many  sloops  and 
canal  boats  are  built,  and  two  or  three  steam-boats 
have  been  constructed.  Small  ships  occasionally 
haul  up  here  to  repair. 

*Stuyvesant  Landing  (E.  S.),  contains  about  60 
houses,  a  few   stores,   a   post-office,   church,  &c. 

D 


'I 


38 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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V    'It- 

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Nearly  opposite  is  a  light-house,  erected  in  1829^ 
under  the  direction  of  Samuel  Swartwout,  collector 
of  the  port  of  New-York.  Two  miles  above,  on 
the  east  side,  is  another,  which  was  erected  at  the 
same  time. 

KiNDERHooK  is  situatcd  5  miles  inland. 

New-Baltimore  (W.  S.).  There  is  a  yellow  store- 
house on  the  dock,  from  which  a  sloop  sails  once  a 
week. 

*Coeymans  (W.  S.).  Red  store-house  on  one 
wharf,  white  on  the  other.  There  is  a  stone  build- 
ing just  south  of  this  landing,  on  which  an  antiquary 
might  gaze  with  interest.  A  flouring-mill  will  be 
seen  a  little  north  of  the  village. 

Castleton  (E.  S.),  8  miles  from  Albany — brick 
store  on  one  dock,  white  hay-press  on  the  other. 

Mr.  J.  B.  Staats's  place  (E.  S.),  5  miles  from  Al- 
bany, is  called  Hoge-bergh,  which,  in  English,  signi- 
fies high  hill. 

Van  Wie^s  i^oint  (W.  S.),  5  miles  from  Albany. 

The  Overslaugh^  3  miles  below  Albany,  is  a  place 
where  the  channel  is  very  shoal  and  narrow,  and  oc- 
casionally the  steam-boats  are  obliged  to  *'  lay-to"  for 
an  hour  or  two,  until  the  tide  rises.  An  immense 
sum  has  been  expended  for  the  improvement  of  the 
channel ;  but  it  soon  fills  up  again.  Albany  is  in 
sight  from  this  place.  - 

Greenbush  is  nearly  opposite  Albany.  A  steam 
ferry-boat  plies  between  the  two  places.  -     '  •":" 

->  The  city  of  Albany  is  the  capital  of  New- York, 
the  "  empire  state,"  and  contains  a  population  of 
about  30,000  souls.  About  the  year  1612,  some 
emigrants  from  Holland  settled  her*^  •  and  it  is  be- 
lieved to  be  the  oldest  settlement  in  the  United 
States,  with  the  exception  of  Jamestown  in  Virginia, 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


39 


S! 


of  which  place,  however,  nothing  save  a  few  ruins 
now  remains. 

After  Hudson's  discovery  of  the  river  bearing  his 
name,  he  returned  to  Holland,  and  the  States'  General 
granted  a  patent  to  sundry  merchants  for  an  exclu- 
sive trade  on  the  river,  who  in  1614  erected  a  small 
fort  on  an  island  a  short  distance  below  the  present 
city,  which  however  was  shortly  after  abandoned  in 
consequence  of  the  floods  ;  and  in  1617  Fort  Orange 
was  erected.  This  stood  at  about  the  spot  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  Fort  Orange  Hotel,  in  South-Market- 
street. 

On  the  24th  September  1664  the  garrison  at  the 
fort  surrendered  to  an  English  force  under  Col.  Car- 
teret, who  named  the  place  Albany,  in  compliment  to 
the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany,  the  then  proprietor  of 
the  province  under  a  charter  from  Charles  H.,  to 
whom  the  Dutch  had  surrendered. 

In  1686  the  city  was  incorporated  under  a  charter 
granted  by  Governor  Dongan.  In  this  charter  it  is 
called  "  an  ancient  city."  Previously  to  the  revolu- 
tionary war  the  city  was  surrounded  by  a  stockade ; 
the  houses  were  in  the  Dutch  style  of  architecture, 
with  the  gable  end  to  the  street,  and  the  city  bore  a 
very  rural  aspect.  Almost  every  house  had  a  large 
tree  at  the  door,  many  of  which  we  are  told  "  were 
of  prodigions  size  and  extraordinary  beauiy."  Until 
within  a  {e^\  years  many  of  these  old  buildings  were 
standing ;  but  recently  the  progress  of  modern  im- 
provement has  destroyed  nearly  the  whole  of  them ; 
a  few  however  still  remain,  the  solitary  monuments 
of  "  olden  time."  ,  ,  ,^ 

During  the  revolutionary  war,  Albany  was  a  post 
of  great  importance,  being  the  point  of  communica- 
tion with  all  the  western  and  northern  fortresses,  and 


40 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


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for  the  concentration  of  the  American  troops  for  all 
the  military  expeditions  against  the  Canadas. 

In  1754  a  Congress  was  convened  here,  consisting 
of  commissioners  from  seven  of  the  *  provinces,  who 
enrolled  among  their  number  some  of  the  most  cele- 
brated names  in  our  colonial  history.  The  congress 
formed  a  plan  of  union  for  the  colonies,  and  advanced 
such  doctrines  and  views  as  to  their  rights,  as  we 
are  fully  justified  in  believing,  left  a  permanent  im- 
pression in  the  minds  of  the  colonists.  Albany  has 
now  been  the  seat  of  government  of  the  State  of 
New- York  nearly  forty  years,  and  has  lately  pro- 
gressed rapidly  in  extent  and  population,  it  having 
doubled  within  the  last  ten  years.  Its  commerce 
and  trade  are  very  extensive.  Being  situated  near  the 
head  of  tide-water  of  the  Hudson,  and  communicat- 
ing directly  with  the  canals,  its  facilities  for  trans- 
portation to  all  parts  of  the  country  are  very  great, 
and  constantly  increasing.  From  the  favourable 
position  of  the  city,  and  the  almost  boundless  wealth 
of  the  interior,  it  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
Albany  will  continue  to  grow  and  flourish,  and  long 
remain  what  it  already  is,  one  of  the  first  cities  in 
our  confederacy. 

The  great  Erie  Canal  terminates  near  the  north 
line  of  the  city,  at  the  head  of  a  spacious  basin. 
There  are  in  the  city  several  fine  and  costly  pubUc 
buildings,  as  well  as  many  private  ones. 

The  Capitol,  at  the  head  of  State-street,  is  a  fine 
stone  edifice,  115  feet  front,  and  has  a  portico  sup- 
ported by  four  Ionic  marble  columns  33  feet  in 
height.  It  is  occupied  for  the  sittings  of  the  Legis- 
lature and  the  state  courts. 

The  Academy,  which  stands  on  the  square  north 
of  the  Capitol,  is  built  of  freestone,  and  considered 


>:ns 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON. 


4t 


of 


the  most  chaste  and  beautiful  specimen  of  archi- 
tecture in  the  city.  It  cost  about  $100,000.  The 
Lyceum  of  the  "  Albany  Institute"  occupies  a  part 
of  this  building. 

The  City  Hallj  on  the  east  ^ide  of  the  square, 
fronting  the  Capitol  and  Academy,  is  constructed  of 
Singsing  marble,  and  surmounted  by  a  beautifully 
gilded  dome — the  only  one  it  is  believed  in  America. 
— It  forms  a  prominent  object  in  approaching  the  city, 
and  when  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  can  be  seen  twelve 
or  fifteen  miles  distant.  This  building  is  used  prin- 
cipally for  city  and  county  offices,  and  the  several 
courts.  Albany  contains  about  20  churches,  several 
of  which  are  very  fine.  It  has  also  two  Female 
Academies,  a  Theatre,  Museum ;  a  very  good  City 
Library,  and  one  of  the  best  reading-rooms  in  the 
United  States,  under  the  direction  of  the  "  Young 
Men's  Association,"  to  which  strangers  can  be  ad- 
mitted without  difficulty.  Lectures  are  given  by 
members  of  the  society  twice  each  week. 

Stanwix  Hall,  recently  erected,  is  one  of  the  most 
substantial  and  permanent  buildings  in  our  country. 
It  is  constructed  of  Quincy  granite  from  the  vicinity 
of  Boston.  The  saloon  of  this  building  is  at  least 
equal  to  any  similar  one  in  the  State.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  large  dome  which  adds  greatly  to  the 
effect. 

State  House,  in  State-street,  is  a  building  of 
antique  appearance ;  but  not  otherwise  remarkable. 
It  is  occupied  by  the  secretary  x)f  state,  chancellor, 
register,  adjutant-general,  &c. 

The  Canal  Bank,  and  Mechanics^  <Sf  Farmers^  Bank 
stand  in  juxtaposition  at  the  foot  of  State-street. 
The  New-York  State  Bank  stands  in  the  centre  of 
State-street.     The  Commercial  Bank,  and  Bank  of 

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43 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSOIT. 


Albany  are  at  the  foot  of  State-street,  on  the  south 
side. 

The  Museum  Building,  at  the  corner  of  State  and 
Market  streets,  is  built  in  nearly  a  semi-elliptical  form, 
four  stories  high  besides  the  basement,  and  is  without 
doubt  one  of  the  most  splendid  buildings  in  the  State, 
both  as  it  regards  architecture  and  the  material  of 
which  it  is  constructed.  The  three  upper  stories 
are  occupied  by  the  Museum,  containing  a  very  large 
collection  of  curiosities  of  various  descriptions,  all 
of  which  are  preserved  and  arranged  in  the  most 
scientific  manner.  This  concern  is  well  worthy  the 
attention  of  all  who  visit  the  city.  The  terrace 
affords  a  very  extended  view  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

The  Law  Buildings,  at  the  corner  c.f  Beaver  and 
South  Market  streets,  constitute  one  of  the  ornaments 
of  the  city.  The  South  Dutch  Church,  enclosed  in 
well-arranged  grounds,  extending  from  Beaver  to 
Hudson-street,  exhibits  at  each  end  a  lofty  portico 
supported  by  six  large  columns  of  freestone. 

The  Albany  Theatre  is  r  handsome  brick  build- 
ing, scantily  supplied  with  architectural  ornaments 
in  front.     The  interior  is  commodious  and  elegant. 

The  Mohawk  and  Hudson  Rail-road,  between  Albany 
and  Schenectady,  was  commenced  July  29,  1830, 
and  a  part  of  it  was  used  in  1831,  though  it  is  not 
yet  entirely  completed.  The  main  road  terminates 
at  the  south  end  of  the  city,  and  for  the  convenience 
of  the  travelling  public  a  branch  has  been  constructed 
leading  to  the  head  of  State-street.  Locomotive 
engines  and  horse-power  are  alternately  made  use  of 
for  propelling  the  cars. 

There  are  now  no  packet-boats  on  the  canal  be*- 
tween  Albany  and  Schenectady.     Two  boats  of  this 


K 


PASSAOB    UP    1*^:    HUDSON. 


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description  were  employed  «  '^  thus  r(  ite  in  1827 ; 
but  did  not  succeed,  in  cons-  mence  »  the  detention 
at  the  locks — no  less  than  2'i  in  num  n.  "^r  dis- 
tance is  28|-  miles.  By  the  turnpike  it  i.^  ,ly  15 
miles,  which  is  accomplished  in  between  vo  ana 
three  hours,  while  on  the  canal  the  passage  o  (  pie^ 
from  twelve  to  fourteen  hours.  Persons  wishing  to 
take  the  packet-boats  (which  leave  Schenectady  for 
the  West  at  2  and  7  P.M.),  take  coaches  at  Albany 
on  the  arrival  of  the  5  o'clock  boats  from  New- York, 
and  arrive  at  Schenectady  for  the  2  o'clock  packet, 
or  at  3  o'clock,  P.M.,  and  arrive  for  the  7  o'clock 
packet. 

For  TftOY,  6  miles  north  of  Albany,  stages  leave 
every  hour ;  and  there  are  small  steamboats  which 
leave  on  the  arrival  of  every  boat  from  New-York, 
and  at  intermediate  hours. 

Stages  leave  daily  for  Ballston  and  Saratoga 
Springs,  at  6  and  9  o'clock,  A.M.,  at  12  M.,  and  2, 
3,  and  5  o'clock  P.  M. 

For  Uticaj  Rochester,  and  Buffalo,  daily,  at  1 1  A.M., 
and  3  and  1 1  o'clock  P.  M. 

For  Whitehall,  daily,  at  9  o'clock,  A.M.,  to  meet' 
the    steamboat  on  Lake  Champlain,  which  runs  to 
St.  Johns,  where  passengers  take   stages  for  Mon- 
treal, distant  about  30  miles. 

For  Boston  (through  in  two  days),  via.  Lebanon 
Springs,  Pittsjield,  Northampton,  and  Worcester,  daily, 
except  on  Sunday,  at  2  o'clock,  A.  M. 

For  Providence  (through  in  two  days),  via.  West- 
field,  Munson,  and  Stockhridge,  daily,  except  on  Sun- 
day, at  2  o'clock,  A.  M. 

For  Hartford  (through  in  one  day),  via.  Sheffield 
and  Norfolk^  daily,  except  on  Sunday,  at  1  o'clock, 
A.M. 


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44 


PASSAGE    UP    THE    HUDSON* 


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For  New-Haven  (through  in  a  day  and  a  half), 
via.  Litchfield  J  daily,  except  on  Sunday,  at  1  o'clock, 
P.M. 

For  Lebanon  Springs,  via.  Nassau  Village,  every 
morning  at  9  o'clock. 

For  Montreal  (during  the  winter),  every  morning 
at  2  o'clock, — through  in  three  days. 

For  Cherry  Valley,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday,  at  2  o'clock,  A.  M.  ' 

Thorps'  &  Sprague's  Stage-Office,  corner  of  State 
and  North  Market  streets. 

Baker  &  Walbridge's  Office,  corner  of  Hamilton 
and  South  Market  streets. 

Rail-Road  Office,  115  State-street. 

Steamboat  Office,  on  the  pier  foot  of  State-street. 


i 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 


The  traveller  may  take  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson 
Rail-road  from  115  State-street,  and  be  whirled 
across  "  by  steam,"  or  take  the  stage,  which  calls  at 
any  place  in  the  city ;  when,  after  riding  1 5  miles 
over  a  sandy  road,  and  through  a  barren  country, 
with  nothing  to  attract  or  interest  the  eye,  he  finds 
himself  in  the  ancient  city  of 

Schenectady.  According  to  tradition,  this  place 
seems  to  have  been,  long  before  the  knowledge  of  it 
by  Europeans,  the  head-quarters  of  the  Mohawks,  a 
very  numerous  and  powerful  tribe,  who  could  at  one 
time  muster  800  warriors.  The  city,  consisting  of 
63  houses  and  a  church,  was  totally  burnt  in  the 
dead  of  night,  1690,  by  a  party  of  French  and  In- 
dians from  Canada.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  were 
massacred,  some  taken  captive,  and  part  fled  to  Al- 
bany, of  whom  a  number  lost  their  limbs,  and  all 
had  well-nigh  perished  by  the  cold.  Its  present 
population  is  about  5000.  This  was  a  place  of 
some  considerable  business,  principally  forwarding, 
a  few  years  since,  when  goods  were  carried  across 
the  turnpike  to  the  batteaux  on  the  Mohawk  river ; 
but  since  the  canal  has  been  in  operation,  the  busi- 
ness of  Schenectady  has  been  nearly  annihilated,  as 
it  passes  immediately  on  to  Albany. 

The  Schenectady  and  Saratoga  Rail-road  here  com- 
mences, from  the  construction  of  which,  the  villages 
of  Ballstori  Spa,  and  Saratoga  Springs  derive  almost 
incalculable   advantages.      The  cost  of  the  road, 


l;^  W 


4^ 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY 


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which  is  21i  miles  in  length,  carriages,  &c.,  was 
about  J$270,000. 

Union  College  was  incorporated  1797,  and  is 
now  in  quite  a  prosperous  condition.  It  occupies  a 
very  eligible  situation,  a  short  distance  north-east  of 
the  city.  Dr.  Eliphalet  Nott  (inventor  of  the  famed 
coal-stove),  who  is  a  great  mechanical  genius  as  well 
as  a  divine,  is  the  president  of  the  institution. 

The  traveller  now  resumes  his  tour  upon  the  great 
Western  canal,  the  most  stupendous  chain  of  artificial 
navigation  in  this  or  any  other  country.  In  passing 
for  hundreds  of  miles  through  rich  and  fertile  tracts, 
and  over  obstacles  which  presented  almost  impassa- 
ble barriers  to  the  great  work  of  internal  improve- 
ment, so  boldly  planned  and  perseveringly  completed 
by  the  foresight,  wisdom,  and  indefatigable  exertions 
of  Clinton  and  his  compeers,  the  reflection  will  in- 
evitably suggest  itself,  that  the  State  of  New- York 
has  ample  reason  to  indulge  a  feeling  of  pride  in 
contemplating  the  beneficent  results  of  the  triumphant 
labours  of  those  who  planned  and  completed  this 
monument  to  her  public  spirit  and  enterprize. 


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■i 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


CANAL   ROUTE. 


The  several  places  and  distances,  as  they  occur  on 
the  canal  route  from  Albany  to  Buffalo,  are  as  foUowi : 


o 
o 

DISTANCE 

FROM 

^   ' 

1 

d 
o 

+-» 
Qi 

a 
a, 

• 

Xi 

• 

• 

o 
o 

Albany    .     .     . 

,     .      0 

0 

110 

270 

363 

Troy  .... 

.     .     7 

7 

a03 

263 

356 

Junction  . 

.     .      2 

9 

101 

261 

334 

Schenectady 

.      ,   21 

30 

80 

240 

333 

Amsterdam  . 

.     .    16 

46 

64 

224 

317 

Schoharie  Creek 

.      .      7 

53 

57 

217 

310 

Caughnawaga    . 

.      .      4 

57 

53 

213 

306 

Spraker's  Basin 

.     .      9 

66 

44 

204 

297 

Canajoharie  . 

.     .      3 

69 

41 

201 

294 

Bowman's  Creek 

.      .      3 

72 

38 

198 

291 

Little  Falls  .      . 

.    16 

88 

22 

182 

275 

Herkimer     .     . 

.      7 

95 

15 

175 

268 

Frankfort 

.      .      6 

100 

10 

170 

263 

Utica .... 

.      .    10 

110 

0 

160 

253 

Whitesborough  . 

.      .      4 

114 

4 

156 

249 

Oriskany 

.      3 

117 

7 

153 

246 

Rome 

.     8 

125 

15 

145 

238 

Smith's   .      .     .     . 

.      7 

132 

22 

138 

231 

Loomis's 

.      6 

138 

28 

132 

225 

Oneida  Creek    . 

.      3 

141 

31 

129 

222 

Canistota      .     . 

.      5 

146 

36 

124 

217 

New-Boston 

.      4 

150 

40 

120 

213 

Chitteningo  .     . 

.      4 

154 

44 

116 

209 

Manlius  .     .     .     . 

.      8 

162 

52 

108 

201 

I 


48 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANV 


\m 


!■  i:i 


■'%^. 


8 

DISTANCE 

FROM 

1 

• 

o 

|5 

CO 

-§ 

o 

Orville 

3 

165 

55 

106 

Syracuse      .... 

6 

171 

61 

99 

Geddes 

2 

173 

63 

97 

Nine-Mile  Creek    .     . 

6 

179 

69 

91 

Canton 

6 

185 

75 

85 

Jordan 

6 

191 

81 

79 

.♦Weed's  Basin    .     .     . 

6 

197 

87 

73 

Port  Byron  .... 

3 

200 

90 

70 

Montezuma  (Lakeport) 

6 

206 

96 

64 

Clyde 

11 

217 

107 

53 

Lyons      

9 

226 

116 

44 

Newark 

7 

233 

123 

37 

Palmyra 

8 

241 

131 

29 

Fullom's  Basin .     .     . 

13 

254 

144 

16 

Pittsford       .... 

6 

260 

150 

10 

Rochester     .... 

10 

270 

160 

0 

Ogden 

12 

282 

172 

12 

Adams's  Basin .     .     . 

3 

285 

175 

15 

Brockport     .... 

5 

290 

180 

20 

Holley 

5 

295 

185 

25 

Newport       .... 

10 

305 

195 

35 

Portville 

4 

309 

199 

39 

Oak  Orchard      .     .     . 

6 

314 

204 

44 

Middleport    .... 

7 

321 

•  211 

53 

Lockport      .... 

13 

333 

223 

63 

Pel  lleton     .... 

7 

340 

230 

70 

Tonawanda .... 

12 

352 

242 

82 

Black  Rock       .     .     . 

8 

360 

250 

90 

Buffalo 

3 

363 

253 

93 

o 

I 

198 

192 

190 

184 

178 

172 

166 

163 

157 

146 

157 

130 

122 

109 

103 

93 

81 

78 

73 

68 

58 

54 

49 

42 

30 

23 

11 

3 

0 


g  A 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


49 


TABLE  OF  ROADS, 


198 

192 

190 

184 

178 

172 

166 

163 

167 

146 

157 

130 

122 

109 

103 

93 

81 

78 

73 

68 

68 

64 

49 

42 

30 

23 

11 


FROM   ALBANY  TO   BUFFALO. 


Schenectady 

Amsterdam 

Caughnawaga 

Palatine  Bridge 

Little  Falls      . 

Herkimer 

Utica 

Vernon 

Manlius 

Onondaga   

Auburn 

Cayuga  Bridge 

Geneva  ...,.....♦ 

Canandaigua 

Batavia 

Buffalo 

From  Buffalo  to  Niagara  Falls 
"         **        "  Lewiston   . 

From  Canandaigua  to 

Rochester 28 

Clarkson .18 

Lewiston 60 

Niagara  Falls 

TProm  Utica  to  Sackett's  Harbour  .      .      98 
*♦       «      «*  Ogdensburgh      .      .     .120 

E 


Inter- 
mediate. 

15 

Total 
Distance 

15 

15 

30 

10 

40 

12 

52 

21 

73 

7 

80 

16 

96 

15 

111 

25 

136 

10 

146 

24 

170 

9 

179 

13 

192 

16 

208 

48 

256 

40 

296 

21 

317 

28 

324 

28 

28 

18 

46 

60 

lOG 

7 

113 

iWl 


'^  ■'.. 


t , 


\lu, 


>  ft 

ill 


K» 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY 


The  Canal  Packet-boat,  by  which  the  traveller  to 
the  west  continues  his  journey  from  Schenectady,  is 
about  80  feet  in  length  and  14  wide.  A  cabin  in 
the  forward  part  of  the  boat  is  fitted  for  ladies,  with 
twelve  berths,  in  a  similar  style  to  those  of  the 
steamboats  on  the  Hudson.  The  dining-cabin  is 
about  35  feet  in  length.  The  gentlemen's  berths  are 
not  stationary,  but  are  hung  up  in  the  dining-cabin 
at  bed-time,  by  means  of  hooks  fitted  for  the  purpose. 
Back  of  the  dining-cabin  is  the  kitchen  and  sleeping- 
cabin  for  the  hands. 

After  leaving  Schenectady,  the  boat  passes  through 
the  town  of  Rotterdam,  a  most  delightful  tract  of 
country,  to  the  first  lock,  which  will  prove  an  inter- 
esting sight  to  those  unacquainted  with  the  science 
of  canal  navigation.  The  lower  gates  are  opened, 
the  boat  runs  in,  the  gates  are  closed,  and  the  upper 
flood-gates  opened.  As  an  equilibrium  takes  place 
between  the  high  water  above  the  lock  and  that  in 
the  lock,  the  boat  rises  gradually  about  8  feet,  to  the 
level  of  the  water  above.  The  acclivity  being  thus 
surmounted,  the  upper  gates  are  opened,  and  the  boat 
moves  on  uninteiTupted.  The  distance  from  Sche- 
nectady to  TItica  is  80  miles,  and  the  passage  is 
performed  in  from  18  to  20  hours.  The  boats  are 
drawn  by  three  horses  ahead  of  each  other.  The 
horses-  are  changed  about  every  1 0  miles.  After 
proceeding  15  miles,  the  tourist  has  a  view  of  the 
village  of 

Amsterdam,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mohawk 
River,  which  contains  about  1 00  houses,  and  is  destmed 
to  become  a  place  of  some  importance  from  the  manu- 
facturing facilities  afforded  it  by  falls  in  a  creek  near 
jt.     A  very  fine  bridge  crosses  the  river  at  this  place. 


i 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALB AN V. 


51 


A  few  miles  farther  is  seen  the  stone  house  formerly 
the  residence  of  Guy  Johnson. 

Schoharie  Creek.  The  canal  crosses  this  creek 
by  means  of  a  guard-lock  on  each  side,  the  gates  of 
which  are  closed  when  the  water  is  higher  in  the 
creek  than  the  level  of  the  canal,  in  order  to  prevent 
it  from  rushing  into  the  canal  and  tearing  away  the 
embankments.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Hunter  are  to  be 
seen  near  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  The  Indian 
Church,  called  Queen  Anne's  Chapel,  formerly  stood 
on  the  spot  where  the  eastern  guard-lock  now  is. 

FuLTONviLLE,  27  milcs  from  Schenectady.  A  stage 
leaves  here  for  Saratoga  Springs,  daily,  except  on 
Sunday.     Caughnawaga  is  directly  across  the  river. 

Anthony^s  Nose,  on  the  south  side  of  the  canal,  is 
one  of  the  most  prominent  mountains  on  the  whole 
line. 

Canajoharie  (which  signifif^s  in  the  Indian  tongue 
Boiling  Pot),  38  miles  from  Schenectady.  The  canal 
runs  through  the  northern  section  of  this  village,  and 
a  bridge  crosses  the  river  to  Palatine.  This  will  be 
the  terminating  point  of  the  projected  Catskill  and 
Canajoharie  Rail-road. 

Fort  Plain  village  is  3  miles  above  Canajoharie. 
A  large  creek  empties  into  the  Mohawk  at  this  place. 
The  canal  crosses  the  creek  by  means  of  guard-locks, 

TjITTle  Falls,  22  miles  from  Utica.  These  are 
rapids  rather  than  falls.  On  each  side  the  moun- 
tains are  very  high,  leaving  but  a  narrow  spac  for 
the  river,  canal,  and  road  to  pass  through.  For 
about  2  miles  the  canal  is  formed  by  throwing  up  a 
wall  into  the  river  from  20  to  30  feet  high,  then  ex- 
cavating into  the  mountain  and  filling  it  up.  This 
was  one  of  the  most  ditficult  and  expensive  parts  of 
the  canal,  as  it  was  necessary  to  blast  the  rock  with 


52 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


» I.'}, 


m- 


i   i 


^4. 


I- 


t  t 


>H 


n 


gunpowder,  to  form  the  bed  of  the  canal,  for  nearly 
the  whole  distance.  A  beautiful  marble  aqueduct 
crosses  the  river  at  this  place,  and  leads  into  a  basin 
opposite,  where  boats  discharge  and  receive  lading. 
The  aqueduct  has  an  elliptical  arch  of  70  feet,  em- 
bracing the  whole  stream,  except  in  time  of  freshets, 
and  one  on  each  side  of  50  feet  span.  It  is  elevated 
about  25  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river,  "  a 
foaming  torrent,  dashing  over  the  bare  rocks  in  a 
fearful  and  sublime  style."  There  is  a  bridge  just 
above,  from  which  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the 
aqueduct,  and  the  slab  on  which  is  engraved  the 
names  of  the  canal  commissioners,  the  builders,  &c. 
There  are  a  number  of  fine  buildings  in  the  village 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  prmcipally  of  stone. 
Passengers  disposed  to  pedestrianism  generally  leave 
the  boat  at  the  second  lock,  and  walk  until  they  reach 
the  last.  They  are  six  in  number,  by  which  the  boat 
is  so  much  detained  that  a  person  may  walk  quite 
leisurely  through  the  most  wild  and  romantic  scenery 
that  can  easily  be  imagined.  A  stage  runs  from  this 
place  to  Trenton  i^alls  every  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday,  at  half-past  8,  A.M.,  distance  24  miles. 
After  leaving  Little  Falls,  you  pass  through  a  most 
dehghtful  plain  called  German  Flats,  for  7  miles, 
when  the  village  of 

Herkimer  is  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  There  is  an  island  in  the  river  at  this  place, 
from  which  a  bridge  leads  to  either  shore.  Pro- 
ceeding 5  miles  farther,  the  canal  passes  through  the 
village  of 

Frankfort.  Thence  the  traveller  pursues  his 
journey  10  miles,  and  finds  himself  in  the  beautiful 
and  flourishing  city  of  IJtica. 

Utica  is  located  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schuyler^ 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


53 


(( 


I 


on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River,  96  miles 
west  of  Albany.  It  received  a  city  charter  in  1832. 
A  charter  was  granted  to  this  village  in  1798,  since 
which  time  its  population  has  increased  very  rapidly. 
In  1813  it  contained  1700  inhabitants  ;  by  the  census 
of  July,  1830,  it  contained  8324  souls, — 4338  males, 
and  3986  females  ;  and  the  present  population  is 
estimated  at  about  10,000.  Among  the  pubhc  in- 
stitutions are  the  following :  the  Oneida  Instituts  of 
Science  and  Industry,  which  has  a  large  farm 
attached  to  the  Institution,  on  which  each  student 
labours  from  three  to  four  hours  each  day,  the 
Classical  Academy,  a  Library  the  Lyceum,  Museum, 
two  banks,  and  nine  churches.  A^ery  pleasant  ex- 
cursions are  frequently  made  from  this  place  to 
White sborough,  York  Mills,  Clinton  Village  (contain- 
ing Hamilton  College),  Rome,  and  to  the  wild,  pic- 
turesque, and  romantic  Trenton  Falls.  Stages  leave 
Utica  every  morning  at  5  o'clock  for  Auburn^  Roches- 
ter^ Oswego^  and  Buffalo ;  they  also  leave  in  all  di- 
rections on  the  arrival  of  the  packet-boats  from  the 
east  and  west :  stages  leave  for  Trenton  Falh  four 
times  a  day,  during  the  summer  months ;  packets 
leave  for  Schenectady  every  morning. 

Trenton  Falls,  13  miles  from  Utica,  constitute 
an  object  of  curiosity  and  admiration  to  which  the 
traveller  is  irresistibly  attracted.  It  does  not  com- 
port with  the  design  of  this  work  to  enter  into  a  de- 
tailed description  of  these  falls ;  merely  to  call  atten- 
tion to  them  fulfils  our  design.  They  are  on  the 
West  Canada  Creek,  a  large  stream  which  empties 
into  the  Mohawk,  and  are  about  24  miles  above  its 
mouth.  They  consist  of  several  chutes,  commencing 
near  the  Black  River  Road,  and  terminating  at  Con- 
rad's Mills,  a  distance  of  more  than  2  miles.     The 

E  2 


ii. 


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I' 

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a 


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54 


WESTFRN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 


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m 

i  rr 


K1 


Ik!  ' 


■if'  > 


\-^\i 


Upper  Fall  is  18  or  20  feet,  but  the  previous  descent 
of  the  water  in  the  two  miles  above  is  supposed  to 
be  60  feet.  The  water  at  this  first  fall  is  received 
into  a  large  basin,  and  winds  its  way  downward 
through  a  precipitous  ravine  100  feet  in  depth,  and 
on  the  summits  of  its  banks  200  feet  across  This 
ravine  presents  some  of  the  most  romantic  peculiari- 
ties. In  many  places  the  topmost  crags  overhang 
the  stream,  and  some  hardy  trees,  rooted  in  the  crev- 
ices of  the  rock,  throw  their  branches  athwart  the 
abyss.  There  are  six  distinct  falls.  The  one  we 
have  already  noticed,  which  is  above  the  bridge  on 
the  Black  River  road.  The  next  consists  of  two 
pitches,  and  is  known  as  "  The  Cascades,^'*  where  the 
water  is  compressed  into  a  very  narrow  space,  and 
falls  18  feet.  At  the  Mill-dam  Falls,  next  in  suc- 
cession, the  descent  is  14  feet.  A  short  distance 
below  is  the  High  Falls,  consisting  of  three  pitches, 
the  first  of  which  is  18  feet,  the  second  11  feet,  and 
the  third  37  feet ;  the  three,  including  the  intervening 
slopes  and  pitches,  constituting  a  descent  of  109 
feet.  The  fifth  is  called  Sherman's  Falls,  about  70 
rods  below  the  High  Falls,  and  the  descent  is  about 
35  feet.  The  last  fall  is  at  Conrad'' s  Mills,  and  is 
6  feet.  The  whole  descent  from  the  top  of  the  upper 
fall  to  the  foot  of  that  at  Conrad's  Mills  is  387  feet. 
When  the  water  is  high,  many  of  the  distinct  pitches 
are  lost  in  the  rushing  cataract ;  and  it  is  only  when 
the  stream  is  low  that  each  fall  can  be  separately 
seen.  A  stairway  is  formed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
ravine,  by  means  of  which  a  view  is  obtained  of 
Sherman's  Falls,  and  whence  the  visiter  passes  up 
within  the  ravine,  under  over-arching  rocks,  to  the 
foot  of  the  high  fall.  The  whole  forms  a  stupen- 
dous scene ;  and  those  feelings  of  awe  which  the 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


55 


wilder  works  of  nature  impress  upon  the  mind  are 
powerfully  excited.  Organic  remains  have  hitherto 
been  found  in  abundance  in  the  ravine,  and  Mr.  Sher- 
man (at  whose  house  accommodations  are  afforded 
to  visiters)  has  a  cabinet  of  these  remains,  which 
are  exhibited  to  the  curious. 

The  f^'' owing  are  the  principal  hotels  in  Utica : 
the  Canal  Coffee-House,  kept  by  Mr.  Shepard,  late 
of  the  United  States  Hotel,  is  at  the  packet-boat 
landing ;  the  National  Hotel,  three  doors  north  of  the 
canal ;  Mr.  Bagg's  Hotel,  corner  of  Main  and  Genesee 
streets ;  United  States  Hotel ;  Oneida  Temperance 
House,  and  Clinton  House — are  all  very  fine  estab- 
lishments. 

The  Packet-boats  leave  Utica  every  day  at  2 
o'clock,  P.M.,  for  Rochester  and  Buffalo.  The  fol- 
lowing is  an  extract  from  the  advertisement  of  the 
proprietors.  "  This  line  is  intersected  by  a  line  of 
packets  running  between  Syracuse  and  Oswego. 
Passengers  travelling  between  Utica  and  Oswego 
will  meet  with  no  delay  in  passing  from  one  line  to 
the  other  at  Syracuse,  and  will  find  this  route  both 
interesting  and  expeditious.  A  boat  for  passengers  will 
ply  between  Geneva  and  Montezuma^  where  this  line 
is  also  intersected  by  the  steamboat  on  Seneca  Lake.'''' 
The  boat  passes  through  the  following  villages  on 
the  passage  to  Rochester :  Whitesborough^  Rome, 
New-London^  Canistota,  New-Boston,  Chittenango, 
Manilas,  Sy7'acuse,  Canton,  Jordan,  Montezuma, 
Clyde,  Lyons,  Newark,  Palmyra,  and  arrives  at 
Rochester  in  time  for  the  morning  boat  for  Buffalo. 
There  is  nothing  of  much  interest  on  the  canal  for 
the  first  sixty  miles  west  of  Utica.  It  is  a  perfectly 
level  and  marshy  country,  without  a  lock  in  the  whole 
distance  ;  therefore  the  general  course  is  to  take  the 


i  i 

I' '; 


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66 


WESTERN    ROUTE    PROM    ALBANY. 


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Stage  in  the  morning  and  arrive  at  Syracuse  in  the 
evening,  lodge  at  Mr.  Comstock's  "Syracuse  House" 
(which  is  a  very  extensive  well-furnished  hotel,  and 
kept  in  the  first  style),  and  be  ready  to  take  the 
packet,  as  it  passes,  about  5  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Syracuse  is  the  most  important  place  between 
Utica  and  Rochester,  and  contains  about  600  build- 
ings ;  among  which  are  4  churches,  2  very  extensive 
hotels,  one  on  each  side  of  the  canal,  which  is  lined 
with  lofty  warehouses,  giving  it  the  appearance  of 
New-York  in  miniature.*  The  importance  of  this 
flourishing  village  is  principally  owing  to  the  im- 
mense quantity  of  salt  produced  in  the  vicinity. 
Great  quantities  are  manufactured  from  the  vast 
number  of  springs  by  which  the  whole  body  of  the 
soil  is  impregnated.  The  salt  is  manufactured  by 
solar  evaporation.  The  water  is  brought  in  logs 
from  the  village  of  Salina,  about  one  mile  and  a  half 
distant,  and  emptied  into  the  vats,  wliich  occupy 
nearly  300  acres.  The  vats  are  all  covered  with 
light  roofs,  which  are  moveable  at  pleasure,  to  admit 
the  rays  of  the  sun  upon  the  water,  or  to  prevent  the 
rain  from  mingling  with  it.  The  salt  is  removed 
from  the  vats  twice  or  three  times  in  the  course  of 
the  summer. 

Parties  visrting  Niagara  frequently  take  the  canal 
from  this  place  to  Oswego,  38  miles  northward : 
proceed  by  steamboat  on  Lake  Ontario  to  Lewiston, 
whence  a  stage  ride  of  seven  miles  takes  them  to 
the  Falls. 

There  is  a  line  of  fine  packet-boats  on  this  route. 
The  scenery  is  very  interesting  ;  and  during  the  last 
season  it  received  a  great  portion  of  the  fashionable 
northern  and  western  travel. 

The  Oswego  Canal  extends  from  Onondaga  Lake 

*  There  was  a  great  fire  here  in  the  spring  of  1834.    Damage 
$100,000. 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 


take 


67 


to  Lake  Ontario  at  Oswego.  It  includes  20  miles 
of  the  Oswego  River.  The  whole  distance  is  38 
miles. 

Salina  is  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of  Syracuse. 
The  first  salt-spring  was  discovered  at  this  place  by 
the  Indians,  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  vis- 
ited by  deer  and  other  animals.  The  Oswego  Canal 
commences  at  this  place,  the  surplus  water  of  which 
is  used  for  the  purpose  of  forcing  (by  a  powerful 
hydraulian)  the  salt  water  85  feet  up  the  hill  into  a 
large  reservoir.  It  is  forced  up  at  the  rate  of  300 
gallons  per  minute,  whence  it  is  conveyed  by  logs  to 
the  factories  in  the  neighbourhood,  w^hich  amount  to 
175  within  a  circuit  of  seven  miles.  The  springs 
and  works  all  belong  to  the  State,  to  which  the 
manufacturers  pay  imposts  of  63  cents  per  barrel  of 
5  bushek,  which  are  applied,  according  to  the  con- 
stitution of  the  State,  towards  discharging  the  canal 
debt. 

Geddes  is  a  small  village,  2  miles  west  of  Syra- 
cuse. A  number  of  valuable  salt-springs  have  been 
discovered  at  this  place  very  recently.  The  manu- 
facturing establishments  are  within  a  few  rods  of  the 
canal.  After  pursuing  its  course  7  miles  farther, 
the  canal  crosses  Nine  Mile  Creek,  by  means  of  an 
aqueduct  with  two  arches,  under  which  the  creek 
flows. 

Weed's  Basin,  15  miles  from  Syracuse,  contains 
about  80  houses,  and  is  improving. 

Auburn  is  7  miles  south  of  Weed's  Basin,  for 
which  place  stages  leave  daily. 

The  Slate  Priso?:  is  located  at  Auburn,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Owasco  Creek.  The  machinery  of  the 
prison  is  propelled  by  the  v/at^r  from  this  creek. 

Montezuma  is  a  flourishing  village.     There  is  a 


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58 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


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salt  manufacturing  establislmient  one  mile  north  of 
it,  to  which  a  side-cut  from  the  canal  affords  means 
of  communication.  Passengers  intending  to  visit 
Ithaca  Falls  land  here. 

Ithaca.  This  is  a  beautiful  village,  situate  at  the 
jiead  of  Cayuga  Lake.  Founded  by  the  present 
Surveyor-general  at  an  early  day.  In  1810  it  had 
400  inhabitants  ;  it  has  now  over  5000.  It  contains 
several  churches,  manufactories,  an  academy,  and 
literary  societies  ;  several  newspaper  and  book  es- 
tablishments, several  fine  hotels,  and  is  surrounded 
with  the  most  splendid  scenery.  It  is  situate'  on  a 
flat  of  great  extent,  through  which  the  Cayuga  let 
passes  on  the  western  side  of  the  village.  It  has 
some  fine  mills,  and  immense  water-powers  yet  un- 
employed. 

This  place  has  a  very  extensive  commerce  with 
New-York  and  Pennsylvania.  It  is  said  that  one- 
tenth  of  the  tolls  paid  upon  the  canal  at  Montezuma 
for  produce  going  east  is  paid  by  the  traders  of 
Ithaca  and  its  vicinitv. 

To  tourists  its  great  attraction  consists  in  its 
scenery,  and  for  this  reason  we  give  it  so  particular 
a  notice.  During  the  last  season  a  great  many  per- 
sons visited  it,  and  were  astonished  at  what  they  saw. 
The  following  is  a  brief  description  of  the  Falls  at 
and  near  Ithaca. 

The  falls  of  Fall  River  are  near  the  village,  and 
are  seen  on  entering  the  village  from  the  steamboat 
landing.  Its  height  is  116  feet,  wath  a  proportionate 
breadth.  Two  immense  piles  of  rocks  enclose  the 
stream ;  and  on  the  right-hand,  high  up  the  bank,  a 
mill-race  is  seen  winding  round  a  point  of  the  bank, 
suspended  in  mid-air,  and  now  and  then  an  adven- 
turous visiter  carefully  treading  his  way  along  the 


Stif^ 


i   .    ■  - 


WESTKRN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


59 


H 


dizzy  path.  This  race-way  was  built  in  an  extra- 
ordinary manner : — A  person  let  himself  down  from 
a  tree  standing  on  a  high  point  above,  and  swinging 
over  the  giddy  steep,  he  there  dug  out  places  in  the 
rock  in  which  to  fasten  the  principal  supporters  of 
the  race.  The  view  from  this  point  is  grand  and 
impressive.  A  short  distance  from  this,  up  the  rocky 
bed  of  the  creek,  the  visiter  proceeds  until  his  steps 
are  arrested  by  another  splendid  fall ;  the  bank  pre- 
senting the  most  curious  forms,  and  the  most  sur- 
prising strata.  The  fall  is  beautiful ;  it  is  not  so 
high  as  the  preceding,  but  it  is  more  wild ;  the  water 
pours  over  in  large  sheets,  commencing,  as  it  were, 
from  the  topmost  ledge,  and  then  spreading  out 
widely  and  boldly  below.  The  basin  into  which  the 
water  falls  is  also  very  picturesque. 

There  are  two  more  falls  beyond  these,  which, 
with  the  others,  make  the  descent  438  feet  in  the 
short  space  of  one  mile. 

There  are  some  beautiful  falls  on  the  Cascadilla, 
though  the  effect  of  two  of  them  has  been  destroyed 
by  a  high  mill-dam  thrown  across  the  bed  of  the 
stream. 

On  the  Six  Mile  Creek  and  on  the  Buttermilk 
Creek  there  are  also  a  great  number  of  beautiful  and 
romantic  falls,  all  worthy  of  particular  notice,  and 
equal  to  any  thing  in  this  country.  These  are  all  at 
the  village. 

On  the  Five  Mile  Creek,  which  is  a  few  miles 
south  from  Ithaca,  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  falls 
of  water  ever  beheld.  It  is  impossible  to  describe 
its  majestic  character. 

At  Goodwin's  Point  there  is  still  another  fall, 
called  the  Taghcanic.  This  point  is  a  place  where 
the  steamboats  land  daily. 


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60 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANV. 


The  ravine  is  ascended  for  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  and  then  the  eye  is  amazed  with  a  fall  of  water 
of  200  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  a  breadth  of  60 
feet,  and  banks  of  lock  360  feet  high.  The  stream 
of  water  varies  in  quantity,  though  it  is  always  a  full 
stream. 

There  is  fine  fishing  and  shooting  during  the  sea- 
son about  Ithaca. 

The  lake  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water  40  miles  long 
and  from  1  to  4  miles  wide.  Several  neat  villages 
are  situated  on  its  banks,  and  its  surface  is  often 
white  with  sails.  Travellers  who  wish  to  embrace 
the  pleasures  of  this  excursion  will  find  the  following 
routes  decidedly  the  best : 
From  New- York,  via.  Newburgh,  to  Ithaca,  2  days. 

«  «  "     Catskill,        "       "       2 

"  "  "     Utica  and  Auburn,        3 

"  "  "     Montezuma  &  canal,    4 

The  steamboat  De  Witt  Clinton^  low  pressure,  with 
elegant  accommodations,  and  making  the  passage  in 
from  four  to  five  hours,  including  ten  landings,  leaves 
the  bridge,  East  Cayuga,  every  day,  at  1  o'clock, 
P.M.,  Ithaca  at  7,  A.M. 

The  Telemachus,  every  other  day,  with  canal-boats 
in  tow. 

These  boats  are  owned  by  Messrs.  De  Witt  & 
Bloodgood,  of  Albany.  They  are  both  on  the  An- 
nesly  plan,  which  is  found  in  these  instances  to  suc- 
ceed admirably. 

There  is  a  superb  hotel,  called  the  Clinton  Hou^fj 
at  Ithaca. 

One  mile  from  Montezuma  the  canal  enters  the 
Montezui  la  marsh,  3  miles  in  extent,  which  is  a  most 
Rolitary,  desolate,  and  dreary  swamp.     After  leaving 


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WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANV. 


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the  marsh,  and  travelling  8  miles,  the  traveller  passes 
the  flourishing  village  of 

Clyde,  which  contains  a  glass-blowing  establish- 
ment. 

Palmyra  is  a  handsome  business-looking  village, 
in  Wayne  county.  It  is  built  on  the  southern  side 
of  the  canal.  There  are  a  number  of  factories  and 
mills  in  the  vicinity  situated  on  Mud  Creek,  which 
runs  eastward  about  40  rods  from  the  main  street. 
Passengers  and  goods  destined  for  Canandaigua  land 
at  this  place. 

Fullom's  Basin,  13  miles  from  Palmyra.  The 
distance  by  canal  to  Rochester  is  16  miles,  and  by 
land  only  7i  ;  in  consequence  of  which  passengers 
frequently  take  stages  from  this  place  ;  by  doing  this, 
however,  the  view  of  the  Gr-eat  Embankment  is  lost. 
The  embankment  commences  about  4  miles  from 
FuUom's  Basin,  and  extends  2  miles,  at  an  elevation 
of  about  70  feet,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  prospect 
of  the  surrounding  country. 

PiTTSFORD,  containmg  about  100  buildings,  is  2 
miles  farther.  After  proceeding  10  miles  from  Pitts- 
ford,  the  boat  arrives  at  the  large  and  prosperous 
city  of 

RocHKSTER,  the  most  extensive,  populous,  and  im- 
portant place  in  tlie  western  country.  The  legisla- 
ture granted  a  city  charter  in  the  session  of  1834. 
It  has  been  termed  the  "Western  New- York."  The 
Genesee  Rirer  passes  tlirough  the  city,  and  the 
Great  Falls,  97  feet  in  height,  are  about  80  rods 
below.  From  the  centre  of  these  falls  the  cele- 
brated Sam  Patch,  of  inmiortal  memory,  made  his 
"  last  jump,"  in  the  autumn  of  1829.  He  precipi- 
tated himself  from  a  scafibld  erected  25  feet  above 
Table  Rock,  making  an  elevation  of  125  feet.     An 


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62 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


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immense  number  of  persons  had  collected  from  many 
miles  distant,  to  witness  this  last  and,  as  it  proved, 
fatal  leap.  His  body  was  not  found  until  the  en- 
suing spring.  In  1812,  Rochester  was  a  wilderness; 
and  in  the  short  space  of  twenty-one  years  its  growth 
has  been  unprecedented,  as  will  be  perceived  by  a 
slight  glance  at  its  present  statistics.  It  contams 
2000  buildings,  and  a  population  of  12,000.  In  the 
south  part  of  the  city  the  canal  runs  parallel  with 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  river  for  half  a  mile,  and  at 
but  a  short  distance.  At  the  centre  of  the  city  it 
crosses  the  river  by  a  splendid  aqueducf^  804  feet  long, 
with  1 1  arches  of  from  20  to  50  feet  chord,  elevated 
14  feet  from  the  surface  of  the  river.  It  is  con- 
structed of  red  freestone,  and  cost  over  $80,000. 
The  height  of  the  canal  at  Rochester  is  501  feet 
above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson,  and  64  feet 
below  Lake  Erie.  There  are  two  bridges  across  the 
river.  The  principal  hotels  are,  the  Eagle  Taveni, 
Rochester  ILruse,  Mansion  Honse^  Arcade  House,  and 
Clinton  House.  The  principal  public  buildings  are, 
the  Court-House,  jail,  12  churches,  and  2  banks,  viz. 
Bank  of  Rochester  and  Bank  of  Monroe.  In  the 
vicinity  of  tlie  city  there  are  eleven  (louring-mills, 
with  fifty-three  run  of  stones,  capable  of  grinding 
12,000  bushels  of  wheat  every  24  hours. 

The  Arcade  was  erected  in  1829.  It  is  100  feet 
front  by  135  deep,  and  four  stories  high,  exclusive 
of  the  attic  and  basement.  There  are  six  stores  in 
front,  besides  a  large  hall,  which  leads  to  the  Arcade, 
where  the  Atheneum,  Post-oflice,  Arcade  House,  and 
a  variety  of  offices  are  situated.  An  Observatory,  in 
the  form  of  a  Chinese  pagoda,  is  erected  on  the  top, 
from  wliich  the  visiter  may  obtain  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  country 


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WESTERN    ROUTIJ    FROM    ALBANY. 


63 


The  steamboats  United  States  and  Oswego,  on 
Lake  Ontario,  ascend  the  Genesee  River  within 
three  miles  of  Rochester.^  A  rail-road  leads  from 
the  city  to  the  steamboat  landing,  and  passengers  will 
find  this  a  convenient  point  of  embarkation  for  York, 
U.  C,  Niagara  Falls,  and  all  the  other  ports  on  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  St.  Jjawrence  River. 

Stages  leave  Rochester,  daily,  for  Albany,  via. 
Canandaigua,  (reneva.  Auburn,  Onondaga,  Utica, 
Little  Falls,  and  Schenectady,  distance  '237  miles. 
They  also  leave,  daily,  for  Buffalo,  via.  Levviston  and 
Niagara  Falls,  passing  over  the  ridge-road,  distance 
104  miles  ;  and  via.  Caledonia,  Leroy,  and  Batavia 
for  Buffalo,  distance  77  miles. 

Packet-boats  leave  Rochester  every  morning  for 
Buffalo  and  Albany.  After  leaving  Rochester  m  the 
boat  for  Buffalo,  and  passing  a  number  of  small 
places,  the  traveller  arrives  at  the  thriving  village  of 

Brockport.  This  is  a  pretty  village  ;  the  build- 
ings and  grounds  of  its  inhabitants  displaying  much 
taste.  It  chiefly  owes  its  origin  to,  and  derives  its 
name  from,  the  enterprising  Hiel  Brockway,  Esq. 

Oak  Orchard,  44  miles  from  Rochester.  It  is 
located  on  the  bank  of  a  creek  of  the  same  name. 
The  largest  arch  on  the  whole  line  of  canal  is  at 
this  place,  over  which  the  canal  crosses  the  creek. 
Travellers,  wishing  to  see  this  "  work  of  man,"  must 
leave  the  boat  a  short  time  before  reaching  it,  as  no 
stop  is  made,  and  walk  rapidly  forward  in  order  to 
gain  time  ;  and  tliey  will  be  taken  on  board  at  the 
village,  when  the  boat    passes.      There  is  a  passage 


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*■  Wo  vvonld  ndviso  travellers  to  dcppml  morn  on  JWfiWspaper 
advertiseiuunls  iii  relation  to  tlifse  boalrs,  than  liie  assertions  of 
individual?,  wliose  interest,  may  not  prompt  tiirin  to  be  over- 
tcrupulous  in  regard  to  giving  correct  information. 


64 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANV. 


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to  the  bottom  of  the  arch  by  means  of  circular  steps, 
and  a  path  underneath,  which  leads  to  the  village. 
19  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  village  of 

LocKPORT.  It  is  situated  on  the  mountain  ridge ; 
and  there  are  here  five  locks  for  ascending  and  five 
for  descending  by  the  canal,  situated  a  few  yards 
below  the  village.  These  locks  are  constructed  in 
the  most  permanent  manner,  and  the  science  and  so- 
lidity displayed  by  them  has  often  been  spoken  of 
with  admiration.  There  are  stone  steps  between  the 
rows  of  locks,  guarded  on  each  side  with  iron  rail- 
ings. This  is  the  most  stupendous  work  on  the 
whole  route.  In  1821  there  were  but  2  houses  at 
this  place  ;  now  there  are  nearly  400,  and  more  than 
2000  inhabitants.  Passengers  who  intend  visiting 
the  Niagara  Falls  frequently  take  stage  here,  and 
proceed  to  Manchester  (the  American  Fall),  23  miles 
distant,  or  to  Lewiston,  which  is  7  miles  below  the 
Falls,  and  visit  Manchester  afterward.  After  pass- 
ing Lockport  7  miles,  the  boat  arrives  at  Tonnewanta 
Creek,  which  forms  the  canal  for  12  miles  to  its 
mouth.  Hence  the  canal  is  carried  along  the  shore 
of  the  Niagara  River  for  8  miles  to  the  village  of 

Black  Rock,  which  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  size,  containing 
700  inhabitants.  The  former  activity  of  this  village 
has  recently  much  diminished,  as  Buffalo  has  over- 
grown it,  and  attracted  most  of  the  business  once 
transacted  here.  The  private  mansion  of  Gen,  Peter 
B.  Porter,  late  secretary  of  war  (who  resides  here), 
makes  quite  a  splendid  appearance  from  the  water. 
From  Black  Rock  the  canal  runs  along  the  bank  of 
the  river,  3  miles,  to  Buffalo. 

Buffalo  is  a  beautiful,  flourishing  city,  at  the  out- 
let of  Lake  Erie,  possessing  the  twofold  advantages 


W 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM     ALBANY. 


65 


111 


of  a  lake  and  canal  navigation.  The  time  is  not  far 
distant  when  it  will  rank  with  and  rival  any  of  the 
Atlantic  cities.  As  a  point  for  the  concourse  of 
strangers  and  voyagers,  passing  to  and  fro  for  plea- 
sure or  business,  Buffalo  in  the  summer  season  pre- 
sents a  singularly  busy  and  active  scene.  The  daily 
ingress  and  egress  of  such  persons,  by  canals, 
stages,  and  steamboats,  would  seem  incredible  for  a 
place  of  its  size,  as  much  for  variety  of  their  origin 
and  destination  as  for  their  numbers.  All  the  world 
in  variety  seem  to  be  passing  here.  Besides  the 
busy  hum  and  animating  effect  of  business,  the  love 
of  nature  and  of  pleasure  will  ever  keep  their  swarm- 
ing devotees  hovering  over  such  a  stupendous  and 
attractive  object  as  Niagara's  everlasting  cataract. 
Buffalo  seems  to  be  the  principal  place  of  repose,  in 
approaching  to  and  receding  from  this  scene.  And 
the  daily  panorama  of  grave  philosophy,  of  beauty, 
of  fashion,  and  of  pleasure,  exhibited  here,  as  if 
about  to  bend  in  adoration  before  the  imposing  spec- 
tacle of  the  mighty  waters,  thundering  from  the 
heights  above  into  the  ever-raging  abyss  below,  or 
as  if  returning  satiate  from  the  deafening  and  cease- 
less roar  of  this  wondrous  water-fall,  presents  so 
shifting  and  variegated  a  picture  as  never  to  tire  tlie 
lookers-on. 

The  commerce  of  Lake  Erie  has  increased  within 
the  last  six  years  beyond  all  precedent.  Then  there 
were^^^T  steamboats  and  from  20  to  25  other  vessels ; 
last  season  20  steamboats  and  135  sc^hooners  were 
in  operation.  Eleven  new  steamboats  and  .30  sailing- 
craft  commence  this  season,  making  in  all  ^Air/y 
steamboats  (the  Washington  having  been  lost  last 
season)  and  165  sailing  vessels  now  engaged  in  the 
carrying  trade  between  Buffalo  and  Detroit. 

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66 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


The  city  contains  a  population  of  from  12  to 
13,000,  and  about  2000  buildings.  More  than  400 
were  erected  during  the  year  1833.  In  1830  the 
population  was  between  6  and  7000.  There  are 
several  splendid  churches,  a  court-house,  museum, 
and  some  fine  hotels.  The  Eagle  Tavern  ranks 
among  the  best  in  the  Union. 

Stages  leave  Buffalo  every  morning  for  Utica,  via. 
Canandaigua,  through  in  three  days,  stopping  nights; 
and  every  evening,  through  in  two  days,  going  day 
and  night. — Every  day  for  Rochester. — Every  morn- 
ing, at  6  o'clock,  for  Niagara  Falls  (on  the  American 
side),  passing  through  the  villages  of  Black  Rock 
and  Tonnewanta,  distance  23  miles.  After  remain- 
ing at  the  Falls  two  or  three  hours,  this  stage  pro- 
ceeds to  Fort  Niagara,  passing  through  Lewiston. 
— Every  morning,  at  8  o'clock,  for  Niagara  Falls  on 
the  Canada  side,  passing  through  Black  Rock, 
crosses  the  river  to  Waterloo,  passes  over  the  Chip- 
pewa battle-ground,  through  Chippewa  village  to 
Niagara  Falls  ;  distance  22  miles. 

Stages  leave  Niagara  for  Queenston  and  Fort 
George,  daily,  at  3,  P.M. 

Steamboats  leave  Buffalo  every  morning,  at  8 
o'clock,  for  Chippewa  village  (passing  round  Grand 
Island*),  and  reach  there  about  noon.  Stages  are 
in  readiness  at  this  place  to  convey  passengers  to 
the  Falls.     The  boats  return  to  Buffalo  at  7  in  the 


♦  Grand  Island  is  12  miles  long,  from  2  to  7  broad,  and  con- 
tains about  48,000  acres  of  well-timbered  land.  A  company 
from  Boston  have  recently  purchased  it,  and  erected  a  sawing- 
mill.  They  design  taking  up  the  trees  entire,  and  sawing 
frames  of  vessels  to  order  for  the  Atlantic  cities.  Indeed  they 
have  already  sent  several  to  the  Boston  market.  An  attempt 
was  made  in  1825  to  establish  a  Jewish  colony  on  this  island, 
bfut  it  failed. 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


67 


evening.  Steamboats  leave  twice  each  day,  morn- 
ing and  evening,  for  Detroit.,  via.  Erie.,  Grand  River, 
Cleavelandj  and  Sandusky;  distance  305  miles.— 
Every  day  for  Erie  (Penn.),  via.  Dunkirk  and  Port- 
land. 

After  leaving  Buffalo  in  the  stage,  and  passing  the 
village  of  Black  Rock,  the  Niagara  River  is  crossed 
by  a  horseboat,  and  the  traveller  arrives  at  the  small 
village  of  Waterloo,  on  the  Canada  side ;  near 
which  are  the  ruins  of  the  memorable  Fort  Erie. 
Th''^  place  is  celebrated  as  the  theatre  of  several 
■3ve  battles  during  '•'  last  war.  After  passing  15 
miles  farther,  over  a  sandy,  though  very  good  road, 
the  tourist  arrives  at  Chippewa  battle-ground.  The 
battle  of  Chippewa,  probably  one  of  the  most  bril- 
liant actions  recorded  in  the  annals  of  war,  was 
fought  on  the  5th  of  July,  1814.  One  mile  north 
of  the  battle-ground,  the  traveller  notices  a  small 
cluster  of  buildings  ;  this  is  the  village  of  Chippewa. 
There  are  two  or  three  mills  in  the  vicinity,  situate 
on  Chippewa  Creek,  which  runs  through  the  village. 
Lundxfs  Lane  is  one  mile  farther  north.  A  san- 
guinary battle  was  fought  here  on  the  25th  of  July, 
1814. 

Burning  Spring  is  half  a  mile  north  of  Lundy's 
Lane.  The  spring  is  enclosed  by  a  small  building. 
A  barrel  is  placed  over  the  spring,  which  has  a  cover 
with  a  tube  in  it,  through  which  the  gas  (sulphuretted 
hydrogen)  escapes  when  a  light  is  applied,  it  ignites 
and  burns  brilliantly.  The  keeper  of  the  snhng  re- 
quires a  small  fee  from  visiters.  Half  a  niile  north 
of  this  spring  are  the  celebrated 

Niagara  Falls.  These  falls  arn  situated  below 
Grand  Island,  on  the  Niagara  River,  about  20  miles 
from  Lake  Erie,  and  14  miles  from  Lake  Ontario. 


<!  I 


S  A 


68 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


14-'^ 


4  ''   i 

*, 


This  river  unites  the  waters  of  these  two  lakes,  and 
is  from  IJ  to  6  miles  in  width.  Above  the  falls  the 
banks  are  from  4  to  100  feet  in  height,  and,  imme- 
diately below,  not  less  than  300.  They  gradually 
diminish  in  height  until  they  reach  the  shores  of 
Lake  Ontario.  The  river  at  the  falls  is  about  one 
mile  in  width ;  the  cataract  pours  over  a  concave 
summit,  and  falls  (on  the  American  side)  almost 
perpendicularly  164  feet.  The  Horse-shoe  Fall  (on 
the  Canada  side)  descends,  in  a  curved  form,  pro- 
jecting about  50  feet  from  its  base,  to  the  distance 
of  158  feet.  The  descent  of  the  rapids  above  the 
falls  about  58  feet,  making  the  whole  height  over 
200  feet.  Table  Rock^  which  projects  about  50  feet, 
is  generally  considered  the  most  eligible  place  for 
viewing  the  falls  on  the  Canada  side.  The  descent 
from  the  rock  is  by  circular  steps,  which  are  enclosed ; 
at  the  foot  of  these  stairs  commences  the  passage 
under  the  great  sheet  of  water,  where  visitants  are 
supplied  with  dresses  and  a  guide.  The  farthest 
approachable  distance  is  Termination  Rock,  153  feet 
from  Table  Rock. 

An  English  writer,  in  speaking  of  this  passage, 
says,  "  We  reached  a  spot  153  feet  from  the  outside, 
or  entrance,  by  the  assistance  of  a  guide,  who  makes 
a  handsome  livelihood  by  this  amphibious  pilotage. 
There  was  a  tolerably  good,  green  sort  of  light 
within  this  singular  cavern ;  but  the  wind  blew  at 
first  in  one  direction,  then  in  another,  with  such 
alarming  violence,  that  I  thought  at  first  we  should 
be  fairly  carried  off  our  feet,  and  jerked  into  the 
roaring  caldron  beneath.  This  tempest,  however, 
was  not  nearly  so  great  an  inconvenience  as  the  un- 
ceasing deluges  of  water  driven  against  us.  For- 
tunately, the  direction  of  this  gale   of  wind  was 


■' 


M^ESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


69 


always  more  or  less  upwards,  from  the  pool  below, 
right  against  the  face  of  the  cliffs  ;  were  it  otherwise, 
I  fancy  it  w^ould  be  impossible  to  go  behind  the  falls 
with  any  chance  of  coming  out  again.  Even  now 
there  is  a  great  appearance  of  hazard  in  the  expe- 
dition, though  experience  shows  that  there  is  no  real 
danger.  Indeed,  the  guide,  to  reassure  us,  and  to 
prove  the  difficulty  of  Jie  descent,  actually  leaped 
downwards  to  the  distance  of  five  or  six  yards,  from 
the  top  of  the  bank  of  rubbish  at  the  base  of  the 
cliff,  along  which  the  path  is  formed.  The  gusts  of 
wind  rising  out  of  the  basin  or  pool  below  blew  so 
violently  against  him  that  he  easily  regained  the 
walk." 

The  cataract  of  Niagara,  the  grandest  spectacle 
in  the  world,  suddenly  bursting  upon  the  sight  of 
its  first  visiters,  who  could  contemplate  nature  in  her 
wild  native  dress,  must  have  struck  their  senses 
more  potently  and  excited  their  feelings  more  in- 
tensely than  it  can  now  do  of  those  who  see  it  sur- 
rounded by  cultivated  fields,  and  monuments  of  art.* 
What  can  we  imagine  more  beautiful,  more  truly 
sublime,  than  a  majestic  river  suddenly  contracted 
into  less  than  half  its  former  width,  after  tumbling 
over  a  bed  of  loose  rocks,  precipitated,  roaring  as 


*  Father  Hennepin,  a  missionary  traveller,  who' visited  the 
Falls  in  1679,  says,  "  Between  the  Lake  Ontario  and  Lake  Erie 
there  is  a  vast  and  i)ro(ligions  cadence  of  water,  which  falls 
down  after  a  surprising  and  astonishing  manner,  insomuch  that 
the  universe  does  not  aftord  its  parallel.  This  wonderful  water- 
fall is  about  COO  feet,  and  composed  of  two  great  cross  streams 
of  water,  and  two  falls,  with  an  isle  sloping  across  the  middle  of 
it.  The  waters  which  fall  from  this  horrible  precipice  do  foam 
and  boil  after  the  most  hideous  manner  imagmable,  making  an 
outrageous  noise,  more  terrible  than  that  of  thunder  ;  for  when 
the  wind  blows  out  of  the  south,  their  dismal  roaring  may  be 
heard  more  than  fifteen  leagues  off." 


<     I 


f 


I 


h 


hit'      S 


^ii 


1^^: 


ft 


iti 


70 


WESTERN    RO     TE    KROM    ALBANY. 


it  were,  with  very  terror,  nto  a  dark  caldron  below, 
maddened  and  lashed  into  i^a  white  as  the  driven 
snow,  and  throwing  up  a  thick  )lumn  of  spray  tow- 
ering to  the  very  arch  of  heaven, — a  cloud  that  is 
seen  to  hang  over  the  Falls  by  those  navigating  Erie 
and  Ontario — by  spectators  a  hundred  miles  distant 
from  each  other.  Add  to  this  impression  on  the  eye, 
that  made  upon  the  ear,  and  our  own  senses  partake 
of  the  wild  tumult  of  the  scene.  Confused,  we 
leave  the  spot  with  a  true  idea  of  the  vast,  the 
grand,  the  sublime. 

The  Falls  on  the  American  side  (divided  from  the 
British  Falls  hy  Goat  Island,  which  stands  on  the  very 
verge  of  the  precipice)  are  truly  magnificent,  though 
of  less  magnitude  than  the  other.  Here  the  ad- 
mirer is  presented  with  a  variety  of  charming  views 
and  an  effective  arrangement  of  the  picturesque ;  but 
for  a  single  view,  in  which  you  would  gaze  on  sub- 
limity itself,  take  your  stand  on  Table  Rock.  A 
flight  of  stairs  has  been  erected  a  few  rods  below 
the  falls  descending  to  the  ferry,  where  a  boat  with 
good  oarsmen  is  always  ready  to  convey  passengers 
to  the  opposite  shore.  Many  are  of  opinion  that  the 
view  from  the  boat,  whirling  about  in  the  eddies,  is 
more  interesting  than  any  other  :  we  advise  all  to 
cross  and  judge  for  themseives. 

A  bridge,  constructed  by  Gen.  P.  B.  Porter,  of 
Black  Rock,  leads  across  the  rapids  to  Bath  Island, 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  falls,  which  is  con- 
nected to  Goat  Island  by  means  of  another  bridge. 
At  the  toll-house  on  Bath  Island  is  kept  for  sale  a 
good  collection  of  minerals  and  other  curiosities  of 
the  countiy.  Brig  Island  is  near,  and  connected 
with  Bath  Island   by  a  narrow  bridge.      It  curiously 


WESTERN     ROUTE    FROM    ALBANV. 


I 


below, 
driven 
ly  tow- 
that  is 
ig  Erie 
distant 
he  eye, 
Dartake 
ed,  we 
St,  the 

)m  the 
le  very 
though 
he  ad- 
views 
le ;  but 
n  sub- 
k.     A 
below 
It  with 
engers 
tiat  the 
Ues,  is 
all  to 

er,  of 
Tsland, 
I  con- 
iridge. 
sale  a 
ies  of 
lected 
iously 


resembles  the  main  and  quarter  decks  of  a  brig,  and 
is  a  delightful  spot  whereon  to  sip  an  ice  or  lemonade. 

Goat  Island,  sometimes  called  Iris,  is  laid  out  in 
delightful  walks,  which  are  shaded  by  a  great  variety 
of  the  lofty  trees  of  the  American  forest.  It  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  fact  of  an  aged  and  vener- 
able goat  having  resided,  and  held  undisputed  right 
there,  for  several  years  prior  to  its  being  trodden  by 
human  feet.  There  are  many  fine  views  of  the 
rapids  above,  and  of  the  grand  fall  on  the  Canada 
side,  from  several  points  on  the  island.*  At  the 
foot  of  this  island  is  the  Biddle  Stairway,  erected  by 
N.  Biddle,  Esq.,  president  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  Near 
this  place  Sa?n  Patch,  who  affirmed  "  Some  things 
can  be  done  as  well  as  others,"  and  whose  ambition 
led  him  to  seek  fame  by  sinking  rather  than  rising  in 
the  world,  made  a  leap  of  1  h8  feet  descent  into  the 
water  l)elow,  from  i  platform  supported  by  ladders 
erected  for  the  purpose.  This  was  in  the  fall  of 
1829,  a  short  tmie  previous  to  his  last  fatal  jump  at 
Rochester. 

Terrapin  Bridge  extends  about  ten  feet  over  the 
precipice  of  the  Crescent  Fall,  and  affords  a  spleiidid 
view,  though  one  that  intimidates  the  gentle,  and 
makes  "  the  brave  stand  still."  It  naturally  excites 
queer  emotions  to  find  one's  self  suspended,  as  it 
were,  in  mid-air,  over  a  yawning  precipice,  and 
causes  an  involuntary  shudder  as  we  turn  our  eyes 
from  the  giddy  depths,  and  the  ever-falling  cataract. 

*  When  an  object  in  the  rapids  approaches  within  a  certain 
distance  of  the  falls,  it  is  difficult  to  rescue  it,  by  reason  of  a 
magnetic  attraction  towards  the  precipice  :  hence  the  legend  of 
the  Indian,  who,  finding  his  canoe  within  the  influence  of  this 
attraction,  gave  up  all  hope,  laid  down  his  paddle,  swallowed 
the  last  drop  in  his  fiask,  shrouded  hiras»U  in  his  blanket,  and 
was  precipitated  over  th^  :V;1 


1 


V ;  n 


Jib 


m 


^H 


i 


73 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


M  J., 


wm  lu 


"U 


I'    '"v 


iV 


M^( 


The  Castle  is  located  about  midway  of  this  bridge, 
and  has  a  camera  ohscura  on  its  summit,  which  pre- 
sents an  effective  miniature  of  the  falls  and  rapids, 
particularly  when  the  sun  shines,  as  there  are  then 
always  several  rainbows  in  the  vicinity.  The  lunar 
low,  occasionally  seen,  is  very  beautiful. 

Whirlpool,  3  miles  below  the  falls,  is  a  curious 
combination  of  small  pools,  constantly  generating 
and  vanishing,  included  in  one  large  sweep  or  pool, 
which  is  caused  by  a  sudden  elbow  in  the  channel. 
It  appears  to  the  best  advantage  at  low  water ;  and, 
at  such  times,  the  same  log  has  frequently  been 
known  to  remain  whirling  about  in  the  pool  more 
than  a  month.  The  prevailing  idea,  that  nothing 
passes  the  whirlpool,  that  it  is  fathomless,  and  that 
every  thing  coming  within  its  vortex  is  swallowed  up 
and  hurled  into  oblivion  is  entirely  erroneous.  The 
rapids  for  a  mile  above  here  are  beautiful,  beyond 
comparison  with  those  above  the  falls. 
:  DeviPs  Hole  is  1  mile  farther  down,  and  exhibits 
a  precipice  very  favourable  to  the  idea  that  the  falls 
were  once  there.  The  theory  that  they  have  receded 
even  from  Lewiston  has  generally  obtained,  though, 
admitting  it,  their  progress  must  have  been  extremely 
gradual,  as  La  Hontaine*  described  them  in  their 
present  position  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty 
years  ago.  There  is  a  tradition,  that  during  the  old 
French  war,  a  party  of  traders,  with  their  horses, 
wagons,  and  baggage,  were  precipitated  from  the  road 

*  Baron  La  Hontaine,  who  visited  the  Falls  in  1683,  says,  "  As 
for  the  waterfall  of  Niagara,  'tis  7  or  800  feet  high,  and  half  a 
league  broad.  Towards  the  middle  of  it  we  descry  an  island 
that  leans  towards  the  precipice,  as  if  it  were  ready  to  fall.  AU 
the  beasts  that  cross  the  water  within  half  a  quarter  of  a  league 
(660  yards)  above  this  unfortunate  island  are  sucked  in  by  force 
of  th«  etreaiii." 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY*. 


73 


iridge, 
1  pre- 
apids, 
e  then 
5  lunar 

urious 
crating 
r  pool, 
lannel. 
;  and, 
J  been 
i  more 
lothing 
nd  that 
wed  up 
The 
beyond 

xhibits 
le  falls 
eceded 
though, 
remely 
n  their 
id  fifty 
the  old 
horses, 
he  road 


<( 


ays,  "  As 
id  half  a 
an  island 
fall.  AU 
"  a  league 
I  by  force 


into  this  liorrible  chasm  by  a  gang  of  hostile  Indians 
whom  they  met  when  passing  to  Lake  Erie. 

The  Pavilion  Hotel,  on  the  Canada  side,  is  situ- 
ated on  a  commanding  spot  above  the  falls.  The 
.visiter  has  a  beautiful  view  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try from  the  roof  or  piazzas.  It  is  a  handsome 
I  building,  and  capable  of  accommodating  over  100 

persons. 

The  City  of  the  Falls  is  laid  out  a  short  distance 
below  the  Pavilion,  and  several  pretty  cottages  have 
already  been  erected.  The  land  was  purchased  here 
by  a  company  last  year,  with  a  view  to  selling 
building-lots  to  the  inhabitants  of  our  Atlantic  cities, 
as  well  as  foreigners,  v  ho  may  desire  a  private  sum- 
mer residence  at  the  fialls. 

There  is  a  neat  pretty  village  on  the  American 
side,  called  MfifwcAe^^er,  m  whicn  are  vjvo  tine  hotels, 
both  owned  and  kept  by  Gen.  Wliitnty,  whose  pleas- 
ing manner,  general  urbanity^  and  good  c?  ^^ring  has 
secured  him  the  patronage  o\  a  jpreat  portion  of  the 
visiters  to  the  falls.  From  here  there  are  stagr-i} 
going  daily  and  almost  hourly  to  Lewiston,  a  small 
village  located  on  the  ridge,  forming  the  celebrated 
Ridge-road  from  Rochester  to  Lewiston,  and  in  ap- 
pearance a  very  garden  of  fertility.  From  here  the 
American  steamboats  leave  three  times  a  week  for 
Ogdensburgh  (on  the  route  to  Montreal)  and  the  in- 
termediate places.  Conveyances  are  also  constantly 
plying  from  the  Bri.ii  h  side  to  Queenston,  directly 
opposite  Lewiston,  from  which  place  the  British 
boats  depart  on  tbe  route  towards  Montreal. 

Brock's  M(  nument.  This  tribute  to  the  memory 
of  the  gallant  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  who  fell  in  an  action 
with  the  Americans  under  Gen.  Solomon  Van  Rens- 
selaer, October  13,  1812,  was  erected  a  few  years 

G 


"^1 
P 


\  m 


:?  f 


fi.  ', 


I  • ,    , 


^ 


?  |»;f 


74 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANV, 


since  by  several  spirited  individuals  of  Upper  Can- 
ada. It  has  a  base  of  about  20  feet  square ^  with  a 
spiral  shaft  extending  to  a  height  of  126  feet.  A 
statue  of  Brock  is  intended  to  be  placed  on  its  sum- 
mit. It  is  located  on  the  heights,  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  from  Queenston,  and  affords  the  visiter  a  rich 
and  varied  view  from  its  pinnacle. 

The  steamboats  leaving  Lewiston  are,  United 
States,  Capt.  R.  J.  Vanden-atcr ;  Oswego,  Capt.  R.  B. 
Macy ;  and  William  Avery,  Capt.  Sherman.  On  the 
British  side,  leaving  Queenston,  Great  Britain,  Capt. 
Whitney;  William  IV.,  Capt.  Paynter ;  Cobourg, 
Capt.  Mcintosh ;  and  St.  George,  Capt.  Harper.  A 
boat  will  leave  Lewiston  or  Queenston  every  day  of 
the  week.  There  are  on  the  lake  and  St.  Lawrence, 
between  Ogdensburgh  and  Niagara,  other  boats : — 
Ufiited  Kingdom,  Queenston,  Constitution,  Kingston, 
Sir  James  Kempt,  Britannia,  Black  Hawk,  Chai'les 
Carroll,  Perseverance,  Brockville,  Iroquois,  Canada, 
Caroline,  and  Prescott. 

Leaving  Lewiston  the  boat  proceeds  down  the 
Niagara,  whose  verdant  banks,  still  deep-moving 
current,  and  transparent  surface  cause  us  uncon- 
sciously to  contrast  the  scene  with  the  one  we  have 
last  gazed  on. — There  are  the  *'  troubled  waters," 
mad,  billowy,  and  raging :  here,  calm,  mild,  and 
submissive,  subsided  into  childlike  placidity.  As  thou 
hast  done  since  the  creation  of  time,  mayst  thou 

ever 

"  Flow  on,  thou  shining  river  !'* 

The  first  stop  is  at  Youngstown,  half  a  mile  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river  ;  and  the  next  at  Fort  Niagara, 
famed  as  the  place  of  Morgan's  imprisonment,  which 
is  located  directly  at  the  junction  of  the  river  and 
the  lake.  This  place  is  fortified,  but  not  garrisoned; 
and  IS  now  used  as  a  recruiting  station.     Raw  re- 


\i 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 


75 


!r  Can- 
with  a 
et.  A 
s  sum- 
irter  of 
:  a  rich 

United 
L  R.  B. 
On  the 
^,  Capt. 

)er.  A 
day  of 
wrence, 
oats : — 
ingslon^ 
Charles 
Canada^ 

)wn  the 
-moving 
uncon- 
^ve  liave 
waters," 
lid,  and 
As  thou 
^rst  thou 


lile  from 
Niagara^ 
It,  which 
iver  and 
risoned ; 
Raw  le- 


1 


cruits  are  here  drilled  for  a  time,  and  then  sent  to 
the  western  frontier.  The  village  of  Niagara,  for- 
merly called  Newark^  is  directly  across  the  river,  and 
is  quite  an  enterprising  place.  A  dry-dock^  of  suf- 
ficient capacity  to  take  out  the  largest  vessels,  has 
just  been  completed  there.  The  ruins  of  Fort  George 
are  still  to  be  seen  there.  The  Wclland  Canal,  con- 
necting the  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  empties  into 
Lake  Ontario  about  14  miles  above  this  place. 
Many  vessels  ply  regularly  between  the  different 
ports  on  both  lakes  by  means  of  this  canal,  though 
it  is  frequently  out  of  repair,  having  never  been  fully 
finished.  It  was  originally  owned  in  part  by  the 
government  of  Upper  Canada ;  and  the  rest,  being 
the  major  part,  by  individuals  who  last  winter  pro- 
posed to  relinquish  their  stock,  on  condition  that  the 
government  would  reimburse  them  principal  and  in- 
terest. On  the  28th  January,  1834,  the  legislature 
passed  a  resolution  acceding  to  the  terms ;  but  on 
the  following  day  had  a  reconsideration,  which  re- 
sulted in  appropriating  $200,000  for  the  impvove- 
ment  of  the  canai ;  and  it  will  no  doubt  soon  be  com- 
pleted, and  prove  beneficial  to  the  community  and 
profitable  to  the  proprietors. 

We  now  strike  out  on  the  pure,  broad  waters  of 
Lake  Ontario,  which  is  the  boundary  between  the 
United  States  and  Canada.  It  is  180  miles  in  length, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  30  to  GO  miles.  The 
water  is  very  deep,  clear,  and  cold,  and  abounds 
with  fine  fish — the  sturgeon,  salmon,  muskalonge,  as 
also  a  great  variety  of  smaller  ones  ;  and  from  the 
following  account  of  John  Maude,  under  the  date  of 
August,  28th  1800,  it  seems  that  more  uncomely  fish 
were  once,  and  perhaps  now  are,  the  tenants  of  this 
great  inland  sea  :  "A  boat  that  had  sailed  from  York, 


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76 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


the  present  seat  of  government,  unexpectedly  re- 
turned again  ;  the  people  on  board  relating  with  great 
terror  their  having  seen  a  great  snake,  at  least  thirty 
feet  long ;  which,  from  its  rearing  its  head  and  fore- 
part of  its  body  out  of  the  water,  they  conjectured 
meant  to  attack  them.  The  Indians  present,  who 
have  always  a  corroborating  story  ready,  asserted, 
that  their  people  had  seen  three  such  snakes,  and 
had  killed  two  !" 

York,*  the  seat  of  government  of  Upper  Canada, 
is  36  miles  from  Fort  Niagara,  directly  across  the 
lake.  The  harbour  is  formed  by  a  peninsula  ex- 
tending into  the  lake,  and  affords  great  protection  to 
vessels  in  hard  weather,  though  it  is  very  difficult  of 
entrance,  the  channel  being  quite  narrow.  On  the 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  a  light-house  is  located ; 
and  opposite,  on  the  mainland,  is  the  garrison  and 
the  battle-ground  where  the  gallant  Pike  fell. 

York  is  a  busy,  bustling  town,  and  presents  more 
nearly  the  appearance  of  an  American  village  than 
any  other  in  the  Canadas :  there  are  a  great  number 
of  stores,  and  many  of  them  are  kept  by  young  men 
from  the  States.  It  is  uncommonly  thriving ;  and 
the  value  of  property  is  nearly  as  high  as  in  the  city 
of  New-York :  more  than  300  buildings  were 
erected  in  1833.  It  was  taken  by  the  Americans, 
under  Gen.  Dearborn,  in  1813,  and  soon  after 
evacuated. 

There  is  a  singular  sect  in  this  vicinity,  ol"  whom 
you  occasionally  see  a  specimen  in  town,  called 
Tunlrrs  or  Dunkards :  they  present  a  most  extra- 
ordinary appearance,  wearing  beards  nearly  two  feet 
long,  little   skimmer    hats,  and    long-skirted   coats. 

*  The  American  bouts  generally  touch    here    on   Iheir  pas- 
■ige  up  or  down  tlu;  liike.    This  city  isnowcalletl  "Toronto." 


(  ■-■,' 


1 


f 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


77 


Some  miles  in  the  interior  is  the  village  of  Hope, 
which  is  inhabited  by  a  still  more  peculiar  sect  of 
people,  the  Daviditcs^  or  Children  of  Peace,  who  de- 
rive their  name  from  its  founder  and  present  leader 
David  Willson.  Tiie  village  consists  of  40  or  50 
neat  dwellings,  and  has  a  picturesque  location  on 
the  declivity  of  a  hill :  but  what  renders  it  most  im- 
posing is  David\s  Temple,  erected  last  year  on  the 
summit  of  tlie  hill.  It  is  70  feet  square  at  the  base, 
of  a  pyramidical  shape,  and  about  80  feet  in  height, 
with  a  pulpit  and  orchestra  in  the  interior.  Con- 
nected with  the  society  is  a  band  of  .singing  virgins, 
who  have  an  annual  feast,  at  which  they  celebrate 
their  rehgion  after  the  manner  of  the  Mosaic,  and 
demonstrate  their  joy  by  singing,  dancing,  &c. 
Wlien  one  of  the  sect  wishes  to  matrimonialize  a 
virgin,  he  informs  David  of  the  fact,  who  appoints  a 
"  time  and  place"  of  meeting,  and  allows  the  pair 
two  hours  to  determine  whether 

*'  'Tis  better  bear  the  ills  they  have,  ^ 
Or  tiy  to  others  which  they  know  riot  of." 

David  keeps  the  store,  makes  their  laws,  is  arbitra- 
tor, judge,  advocate,  and  general  financier. 

Charlotte,  a  small  village  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Genesee  River,  is  the  next  landing-place.  There  is 
a  good  light-house  here,  and  the  government  has 
recently  erected  piers,  by  which  it  is  rendered  a  safe 
harbour.  It  is  110  miles  from  York,  though  only  85 
miles  from  Niagara,  along  the  coast.  Ascending  the 
Genesee,  a  beautiful  meandering  river,  quite  narrow, 
enclosed  in  high  banks,  with  scenery  not  unlike  that 
of  the  Hudson, — 5  miles,  we  arrive  at  Carthage  or 
North  Rochester ;  at  which  place  the  boat  is  gene- 
rally delayed  from  three  to  five  home,  giving  th© 

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WESTERN    ROUTE    FROxM    ALBANY. 


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passengers  time  to  visit  the  city  of  Rochester,* 
3  miles  distant  (by  means  of  a  rail-road),  and  return 
to  pursue  their  tour.  The  "  Lower  Falls"  of  the 
Genesee  are  at  Carthage,  and  well  worthy  a  visit. 
The  wreck  of  the  far-famed  *'  Carthage  Bridge"  is 
here  to  be  seen.  A  single  arch  of  300  feet  chord 
and  250  elevation  formed  the  bridge.  Leaving  here 
the  boat  proceeds  65  miles,  and  enters  the  harbour  of 

Oswego.  This  is  a  fast-growing  village,  located 
on  an  elevated  site  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego 
River,  the  channel  through  which  Oneida,  Cayuga, 
Seneca,  and  several  smaller  lakes  discharge  their 
surplus  waters  into  Lake  Ontario.  The  village  has 
many  natural  advantages  as  a  manufacturing  and 
commercial  town,  besides  those  given  by  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Oswego  and  Welland  canals,  and  will 
always  be  one  of  the  most  important  places  on  the 
northern  frontier.  The  village  lies  on  both  sides  of 
the  river,  and  is  connected  by  a  bridge  700  feet  long. 
It  comprises  several  fine  churches,  mills,  ware- 
houses, and  a  bank,  and  lies  75  miles  north-west  of 
Utica,  for  which  place  stages  and  canal-packets 
leave  daily.  Its  present  population  is  about  4000. 
There  is  a  fine  harbour  here,  formed  by  a  pier  across 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  has  been  erected  by 
the  United  States'  government,  at  an  expense  of 
about  $100,000,  though  in  consequence  of  some 
counteraction  of  the  current  it  is  now  much  ob- 
structed. Vessels  drawing  ten  feet  water  ground  in 
the  channel. 

Oswego  is  favoured  with  extensive  water  privi- 
leges, formed  by  falls  in  the  river  a  short  distance 
from  the  village.     A  very  extensive  canal  is  being 

*  For  description  of  Rochester,  see  page  61 . 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


79 


completed  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  supplying  power  to  mills  and  manufactories, 
which  will  doubtless  add  to  the  already  prosperous 
condition  of  the  place,  as  well  as  give  a  rich  return 
to  the  spirited  and  enterprising  individual  who  caused 
its  construction. 

The  ruins  of  Fort  Oswego^  erected  in  1727,  and 
Fort  Ontario^  in  1755,  both  of  which  figure  con- 
spicuously in  the  annals  of  the  French  and  Revolu- 
tionary wars,  are  here  to  be  seen.  They  were  taken 
by  the  French  in  1756,  but  soon  after  retaken.  The 
British  took  Oswego  in  1814,  but  evacuated  it  im- 
mediately. 

Sackett's  Harbour,  40  miles  farther,  is  the  next 
place  at  which  the  boat  stops.  This  is  a  small  vil- 
lage, remarkable  for  nothing  except  the  importance 
it  acquired  by  being  the  head-quarters  of  the  army 
and  navy  on  the  lake  during  the  late  war.  The 
principal  objects  worthy  of  notice  are,  the  U.  S. 
barracks,  and  the  large  ship  still  on  the  stocks  and 
enclosed,  it  not  having  been  finished  when  peace 
was  declared. 

Black  Riner  empties  into  the  harbour  (which  is 
the  best  on  the  lake)  a  little  north  of  the  village.  A 
stage  leaves  here,  daily,  for  Utica,  98  miles  distant. 
Passing  Storii/,  Gallop,  Pigeon,  and  the  Roj/al  Buck 
Islands  on  the  left.  Bull- Rock  and  Bear  Points^  Gren- 
adier, and  Simcoe  Islands  on  the  right,  the  boat 
arrives  at  the  town  of 

Kingston,  U.  C,  which  lies  38  miles  directly 
across  the  lake  from  Sackett's  Harbour,  and  at  the 
head  of  tl.e  British  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  This  is  a  flourishmg  town  in  the  Midland 
District  of  Upper  Canada,  about  200  miles  south- 
west of  Montreal.     Its  principal  buildings  are,  the 


I 


80 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


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Court-House,  Episcopal  Church,  the  Barracks  of 
His  Majesty,  and  two  Banks,  the  "  Commercial,"  and 
a  Branch  of  the  "  Bank  of  Upper  Canada." 

The  Garrison  is  on  the  peninsula  across  the  bay, 
and  presents  a  very  grand  and  formidable  appear- 
ance when  approached  from  the  lake  or  river.  It  is 
so  located  as  to  afford  almost  perfect  security  to  the 
town,  in  case  of  invasion.  The  officers  are  gentle- 
men,  and  afford  every  facility  to  strangers  visiting 
the  establishment.  Several  vessels  are  seen  on  the 
stocks,  where  they  have  stood  ever  since  the  late  war. 

The  Rideau  Canal,  communicating  with  J5v/-Toi<;n, 
on  the  Ottawa  or  Grand  River,  commences  here.  It 
has  been  in  operation  a  short  time,  and  promises  to 
be  of  great  value  to  the  public,  if  not  to  government, 
as  it  opens  a  communication  with  a  fertile  region 
of  country  before  hardly  known, — abounding  with 
scenery,  the  cragged  tree-topped  mountain,  the  sport- 
ing water-fall,  and  the  shining  river,  which,  for  bold- 
ness and  beauty,  cannot  be  surpassed. 

Mr.  Hume,  whose  book,  "  Canada  as  it  is,"  we  re- 
commend to  the  Canadian  traveller,  says,  "All must 
acknowledge  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  the  Alps, 
the  stupendous  grandeur  of  Niagara ;  but  the  di- 
versified- and  interesting  scenery  of  the  Ottawa  must 
not  be  denied." 

The  boat  now  enters  the  noble  St.  Lawrence  ;  and 
at  the  foot  of  Long  or  Grand  Island,  on  the  right, 
about  10  miles  from  Kingston,  we  approach  the 
Thousand  Islands.  It  is  said  that  these  islands 
number  1300,  though  they  are  not,  as  many  suppose, 
included  within  a  circumference  of  a  few  miles,  but 
embrace  a  distance  of  nearly  fifty  miles.  He  who 
could  count  the  islands  in  this  strange   labyrinth* 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


81 


must  have  been  possessed  of  the  most  indefatigable 
— yea,  of  more  than  woman's  curiosity. 

The  next  stop  is  at  the  American  village  called 
Cornelia,  23  miles  from  Kingston.  French  Creek 
empties  into  the  river  near  the  village.  This  creek 
derives  its  name  from  there  having  been  a  French 
settlement  at  its  mouth  during  the  French  war. 

Alexandria  Bay  is  12  miles  farther.  Here  the 
boats  generally  take  in  wood,  which  delays  them  an 
hour  or  two,  during  which  time  passengers  may  in- 
dulge in  the  luxury  of  contemplating  a  "  rock-bound 
shore."  A  wag  once  remarked  of  this  place,  that 
''  he  hardly  knew  where  the  inhabitants  found  earth 
enough  to  bury  their  dead."  The  Red-wood  Glass- 
works are  near  here.  Proceeding  24  miles  farther 
through  this  chaos  of  islands,  we  arrive  at 

Brockville.  This  place  took  its  name  from  Gen. 
Sir  Isaac  Brock,  and  is  decidedly  the  neatest-looking 
village  in  all  the  Canadas. 

MoRRisTowN,  an  American  village,  is  nearly  op- 
posit.'^  here.  The  last  of  the  Thousand  Islands  is 
seen  here.  Eleven  miles  farther,  on  a  most  beauti- 
ful sheet  of  water  one  and  a  quarter  miles  in  width, 
and  we  arrive  at 

Ogdensburgh.  This  village  contains  a  population 
of  about  2000,  has  considerable  trade,  and  a  good 
harbour  in  the  mouth  of  the  Oswnratchie  River. 
Here  is  the  terminating  point  of  navigable  water  for 
vessels  from  Lake  Ontario ;  and  the  place  where 
goods  are  trans-shipped  from  the  steamboats  and 
schooners  to  batteanx,  and  by  them  carried  down  the 
rapids  to  Montreal,  140  miles  distant.  It  is  equi- 
distant, 120  miles,  from  Utica  and  Piatt sburgh. 

Prescott,  a  small  village  opposite  here,  is  where 
the  Canadian  vessels  trans-ship  goods,  passengers,  &c. 


VI 


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82 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 


There  are  two  fine  steamboats  here,  which  have 
been  constructed  expressly  with  a  view  to  running 
the  rapids, — the  Brockville  and  the  Iroqnois.  One 
of  these  generally  leaves  on  the  arrival  of  the  large 
boats,  and  proceeds,  passing  the  Gallop  Rapid,  Rapid 
Plat,  and  through  scenery  of  the  most  impressive 
and  bewitching  character,  to  Dickinson's  Landing, 
38  miles  on  the  route  to  Montreal.  Here  you  take 
stage-coach  for  12  miles  (avoiding  the  rapid  called 
the  Long  Sault,  where  the  water  is  so  swift,  that 
should  the  boats  descend,  they  would  be  unable  to 
return),  which  brings  you  to  Cornwall.  Here  you 
embark  on  board  the  steamboat,  which  goes  41  miles 
to  CoTEAU  Du  Lac,  passing  'le  Indian  village  of  St. 
Regis,  From  the  Coteau  you  proceed  by  land  to 
the  foot  of  the  rapids  called  the  Cascades,  16  miles, 
when  you  again  take  steamboat  on  Lake  St.  Francis, 
34  miles,  to  Lachine,  a  long,  strnggling,  uninteresting 
village.  From  here  a  stage  ride  of  9  miles  and  you 
arrive  at  the  city  of  Montreal. 

Montreal  is  located  on  an  island  of  the  same 
i^ame,  32  miles  in  length,  by  10  in  breadth.  It  is 
the  largest  city  in  either  of  the  Canadian  provinces, 
extending  two  miles  on  the  river,  and  half  a  mile 
back  ;  is  located  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  and 
may  be  considered  the  metropolis  of  the  British  do- 
mmions  on  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  lakes.  Its 
population  is  about  30,000.  The  principal  trade 
here  is  in  lumber,  flour,  ashes,  and  provisions,  a 
great  proportion  of  which  are  received  from  the 
United  States,  and  here  shipped  for  Great  Britain  and 
the  British  West  Indies. 

There  is  a  college,  with  300  students,  and  several 
magnificent  buildings  in  the  city.  The  English 
Church,    Hotel   Dieu,    Government-House,    Court* 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


83 


have 
ining 

One 
large 
Rapid 
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take 
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that 
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House,  Theatre,  Museum,  several  convents,  and  the 
Catholic  Churchy  which  is  undoubtedly  the  finest  re- 
ligious edifice  in  America.  It  is  225  feet  in  length, 
and  will  accommodate  10,000  persons.  The  Nelson 
Monument  is  near  the  market-place.  "  The  Moun- 
tain," a  great  resort  for  strangers,  is  near,  and 
affords  an  extensive- and  very  beautiful  view  of  the 
city  and  surrounding  country. 

Montreal  is  393  miles  north  of  New- York,  and 
280  N.N.W.  of  Boston.  The  river  is  here  aJ)out 
two  miles  in  width;  and  the  current  is  so  rapid  that 
all  vessels  are  towed  up  from  Quebec,  170  itiilea 
below,  by  steamboats,  of  which  there  are  a  great 
number,  and  those  of  the  first  order.  The  Canada, 
Capt.  Brush,  and  St.  George,  Capt.  Armstrong,  ar0 
ranked  first  on  the  list. 

Tourists  generally  make  a  trip  from  here  to  Que- 
bec, a  place  with  many  attractions  for  strangers, 
grand  fortifications,  and  beautiful  scenery,  though  the 
most  interesting  object,  the  Castle  of  St,  Louis^  was 
destroyed  by  fire  this  year,  and  return  to  proceed  on 
their  way  to  Albany,  via.  of  Lake  Champlain,  Lake 
George,  and  the  Springs.  The  scenery  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  between  Montreal  and  Quebec  is  beautiful 
almost  beyond  description,  and  is  rendered  doubly  in- 
teresting by  nearly  an  unbroken  row  of  houses  on  each 
bank,  interspersed  with  a  church  at  intervals  of  six 
and  nine  miles. 

The  mode  of  proceeding  from  Montreal  is  to  take 
steamboat  for  La  Prairie,  9  miles,  where  stages  are 
in  readiness  to  convey  passengers  18  miles  to  St. 
Johns,  the  foot  of  navigation  on  Lake  Champlain, 
Many  of  the  most  interesting  events  of  our  country 
are  associated  with  the  history  of  this  lake.  During 
the  French  and  Revolutionary  wars,  St.  Johns  was  a 


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84 


WESTERN  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 


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post  of  considerable  importance  as  a  frontier  town. 
It  is  a  place  of  consiilerable  business,  and  contains 
over  800  inhabitants,  though  it  does  not  present  the 
most  prepossessing  appearance.  The  steamboats 
Franklin,  Capt.  Sherman,  and  Phoemx,  Capt.  Lathrop, 
leave  St.  Johns  alternately  every  day  for  Whitehall, 
150  miles  distant.  Isle  Aux  Noix,  14  miles  from 
fet.  Johns,  is  a  strong  military  and  naval  post,  in  pos- 
session of  the  English.  The  establishment  is  for- 
tified and  in  a  good  state  of  repair.  A  few  troops 
are  still  kept  here. 

Plattsburgh,  37  miles  farther,  is  located  on  a 
pleasant  site,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  River,  on 
the  west  side  of  the  lake.  Here  it  was  that  Mac 
Donough  and  M'Comb  achieved  a  brilliant  victory 
over  the  British  under  the  command  of  Provost  and 
Downie,  in  the  last  war,  September  11,  1814. 

The  British  army  consisted  of  about  14,000  men, 
while  the  American  army  was  composed  of  3000 
undisciplined  troops.  This  handful  of  stout-hearted 
ploughmen  kept  the  contending  forces  at  bay  for 
about  tv70  hours,  and  finally  obliged  them  to  retire 
with  a  loss  of  about  2500  men.  The  battle  on  the 
lake  and  on  land  was  going  on  at  the  same  time,  and 
in  sight  of  each  other.  Eighty-six  guns  <jnd  820 
men  constituted  the  American  force  on  the  lake, 
opposing  ninety-five  guns  and  1050  men.  Commo- 
dore Downie  fell  in  the  engagement ;  and  a  neat 
monument  has  been  erected  to  his  memory,  in  the 
churchyard  at  Plattsburgh,  which  bears  a  neat  and 
impressive  inscription.  Several  other  officers  are 
here  buried,  having  no  monument  or  record  to  inform 
us  that  they  "  lived  and  died,"  save  that  engraven  on 
the  hearts  of  their  countrymen.  Oen.  M'Comb's 
cantonment  and  breastworks,  and  the  house  in  which 


a.      34 


WESTERN    IIOUTE    FRuM    ALBANY. 


85 


town. 
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athrop, 
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Gen.  Provost  held  his  head-quarters,  are  in  the  near 
Ticinity. 

The  many  associations  connected  with  this  vil- 
lage will  be  sure  to  interest  the  travillor,  and  make 
a  stay  of  a  day  or  two  any  thing  but  disagreeable.  It 
contains  between  2000  and  3000  inhabitants,  and 
about  350  houses ;  among  which  are  the  Court- 
House  and  County  Jail. — Fifteen  miles  farther  and 
we  arrive  at 

Port  Kent.  This  is  a  small  village  which  has 
grown  up  within  a  few  years,  and  promises  a  con- 
tinuance of  prosperity.  Passengers  for  KeesevilU 
generally  land  here.  From  here,  looking  north,  may 
be  seen  Grand  Island,  Two  Sisters,  Isle  la  Motte, 
Point  la  Roche,  Cumberland  Head,  and  Belcore  and 
Macomb's  Islands  :  on  the  east.  Stave,  Providence^ 
and  Hog  Islands,  Colchester  Point ;  and  in  the  back- 
ground, the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont :  on  the 
south,  the  village  of  Burlington,  and  the  high  peak^ 
called  the  Camel's  Rump ;  the  tout  ensemble  forming  si 
more  pleasing  and  picturesque  view  than  imaginatioii 
can  invent. 

Burlington  is  11  miles  farther,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  lake.  The  village  is  located  on  a  gentle  ac- 
clivity, rising  gradually  from  the  lake,  and  presents 
an  appearance  similar  to  many  others  in  the  New- 
England  States,  which  have  so  often  been  admired 
by  travellers.  fhe  University  of  Vermont  is  located 
on  the  summit  of  the  eminence,  and  affords  a  splen- 
did view  of  the  lake  and  surrounding  country.  The 
village  consists  of  about  300  buildings,  among  which 
are  two  Banks,  Court-House,  Tail,  and  three  Churches. 

TicoNDEROGA  is  50  milcs  farther,  and  is  the  place 
where  pleasure-travellers  generally  leave  the  boat,  in 
order  to  take  Lake  G  ^orge  in  their  tour,  though  some 

H 


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hf.iS. 


86 


WESTERN    ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY. 


proceed  to  Whitehall,  24  miles  farther,  and  there  take 
stage  for  Saratoga  via.  Sandi/  Hill  or  Albany.  The  fort 
and  ruins  of  Ticonderoga  are  objec;** «  1  great  interest, 
and  are  frequently  visited.  The  f(i-.ress  was  con- 
structed by  the  French  in  1756,  and,  judging  from 
the  walls  which  still  remain,  must  have  been  uncom- 
monly strong.  It  stands  about  200  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake.  The  magazine ,  under  ground,  of 
stone,  built  arching,  remains  nearly  entire ;  it  is  35 
feet  long,  15  feet  wide,  and  8  feet  high.  A  subter- 
raneous passage  of  20  or  30  rods  in  length  leads 
from  it  to  the  lake.  When  Col.  Ethan  Allen  took 
the  fort,  "  in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah,  and  the 
Continental  Congress,'^''  he  passed  through  this  chan- 
nel. This  was  in  1775. — From  here  a  ride  of  three 
miles  takes  the  tourist  to  the  steamboat  landing,  at 
the  outlet  of 

Lake  George.  This  is  a  beautiful  lake,  36  miles  in 
length,  and  varying  from  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to 
4  miles  in  width.  "  There  are  few  places  where  a 
greater  variety  of  inducements  attract  the  stranger 
than  at  Lake  George.  Besides  the  interest  which  is 
excited  from  an  association  of  many  important  historic 
events,  this  place  is  rendered  peculiarly  interesting 
from  the  unrivalled  exhibition  of  the  beautiful  and 
romantic  scenery  presented  by  the  lake  and  its  en- 
vironsJ'  Having  taken  passage  on  board  the  steamer 
Mountaineer,  we  pass  Prisoner''s  Island,  Anthony''s 
Nose  (this  is  a  standard  name ;  and  we  as  much  ex- 
pect a  promontory  on  every  river  and  lake,  with  this 
cognomen,  as  we  expect  to  see  Daniel  Lambert  in 
every  museum),  Roger'' s  Slide,  Sabbath-Day  Point, 
Half-way  Island,  and  Black  Mountain,  which  is  2200 
feet  in  height.  Passing  Tongue  Mountain,  and 
Phelps^s  Deer-Pasture,  we  arrive  at  the  head  of  the 


WESTERN    ROLTE    KIIOM    ALBANY. 


87 


e  take 
lie  fort 
terest, 
5  con- 
y  from 
ncom- 
ve  the 
nd,  of 
t  is  35 
subter- 
leads 
n  took 
nd  the 
I  ehan- 
f  three 
iing,  at 

riiles  in 
[iiile  to 
^here  a 
tranger 
hich  is 
listoric 
resting 
ul  and 
its  en- 
iteamer 
thony''s 
ich  ex- 
ith  this 
bert  in 

Point, 
s  2200 
71)   and 

of  the 


lake,  where  stands  the  village  of  Caldwell,  which 
is  36  miles  from  our  starting  point  and  the  asser- 
tion is  ventured,  that  no  passage  of  an  equal  dis- 
tance can  furnish  so  rich  and  diversifying  a  prospect. 
The  lake  is  interspersed  with  a  great  number  of 
small  islands ;  and  its  smooth,  clear,  green  surface  is 
strikingly  contrasted  with  the  high  and  rugged  shores 
which  enclose  it. 

The  village  of  Caldwell  contains  about  300  in- 
habitants, and  has  a  good  hotel  capable  of  accom- 
modating 80  persons.  It  has  a  Church,  Court-House, 
and  Post-Office.  Prospect  Hill,  which  is  near,  affords 
a  rich  and  diversified  prospect  from  the  summit.  It 
is  27  miles  from  Saratoga ;  and  fishing  excursions 
are  frequently  made  from  there  to  Caldwell,  where 
tackle,  boats,  &c.  are  furnished  at  the  hotel.  There 
are  daily  conveyances  from  Caldwell,  passing  Glenn's 
Falls  to  the  Saratoga  Spriitgs,*  from  which  place 
rail-road  cars  depart  for  Albany,  via.  Schenectady, 
several  times  every  day. 

*  For  description  of  the  Springs,  &c.  see  pa^c  92. 


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1- 


ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY    TO    BALLSTON 
AND  SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

Since  the  completion  of  the  rail-roads,  nearly  all 
travellers  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga  go  by  way  of 
Schenectady,  where  they  changa  cars  and  proceed 
direct  to  the  Springs,  by  tlie  Schenectady  and  Sara- 
toga Rail-road.  It  is  36^  miles  by  rail-road,  and 
considerably  the  most  expeditious  route ;  however, 
some  persons,  who  travel  for  information  as  well  as 
pleasure,  still  prefer  the  old  route,  which  we  here 
describe  : 

On  the  road  to  Troy,  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  city,  is  the  Mansion  House  of  Gen.  Stephen  Van 
Rensselaer,  who  is  possessed  of  an  immense  estate 
(extending  10  miles  along  the  river,  and  nearly  20 
east  and  west),  and  bears  the  old  Dutch  title  of 
*'  Patroon  of  Albany."  His  liberality  in  advancing 
literature,  agriculture,  and  charitable  institutions  is 
proverbial,  as  he  contributes  largely  to  all.  Here 
the  stage  strikes  tlie  Macadamized  road^  which  was 
finislied  in  1831,  between  Troy  and  Albany.  It  is 
six  miles  in  length,  and  cost  over  $90,000.  After 
travelling  five  miles  upon  this  dehghtful  road,  you 
arrive  at  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  located  in  a  most  eligible 
situation  on  tho  west  bank  of  the  Hudson.  The 
buildings  are  constructed  of  brick  and  stone.  From 
the  arsenal  to  the  upper  ferry  is  a  continued  range 
of  houses,  divided  into  three  villages,  viz. :  Watervliet, 
Port  Schuyler,  and  West  Troy;  but  where  the  lines 
of  distinction  between  these  places  are  drawn  it  is 


ROUTE  FHOM  ALBANV  TO  THE  SPRINGS* 


89 


difficult  to  tell.  There  are  two  routes  hence  to 
Waterford  ;  one  leading  through  Troy  and  Lansing- 
burgh,  and  the  other  by  the  junction  of  the  Erie  and 
Northern  canals  and  Cohoes  Falls,  which  are  worthy 
of  a  visit.  The  traveller  can  pass  over  both  routes 
in  going  to  and  returning  from  the  Springs.  In  pur- 
suing the  Trof/  and  Lansingburgh  route,  the  stage 
crosses  the  Hudson  in  a  horseboat  from  West  Troy 
lo  the  city  of  Troy. 

The  city  of  Troy  is  located  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  Hudson;  and  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  re- 
markable for  Its  beauty,  presenting  on  all  hands  the 
alternation  of  hill  and  vale,  covered  with  refreshing 
verdure,  and  the  indi(;ations  of  a  fertile  soil.  The 
streets  in  the  city  cross  at  right-angles,  running  east 
and  west,  and  north  and  south.  The  buildings  are 
many  of  them  elegant,  and  generally  of  brick ;  and 
in  some  streets  are  shaded  by  trees  on  each  side. 
Among  them  are  four  Banks,  seven  Churches,  a 
Court-House,  Jail,  and  Market.  The  most  splendid 
are,  the  Episcopal  church  (a  beautiful  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture),  the  Court-House,  a  very  fine 
building ;  the  Merchants'  and  Mechanics'  Bank, 
and  the  Farmers'  Bank,  adjoining  each  other,  both 
built  of  freestone,  are  very  resj)ectable  buildings. 
The  Troy  Female  Se/ninari/,  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  Mrs.  Willard,  occupies  a  large  four-story 
brick  building  belonging  to  the  corporation.  The 
j)0i)ulati()n  of  Troy  is  about  13,000.  A  canal  packet- 
boat  leaves  here  daily  at  0  o'clock,  for  Whitehall,  and 
runs  through  in  about  '■2'2  hours.  A  rail-road  is  being 
built  to  connect  it  with  Ballston  Spa. 

Mount  Ida  is  in  the  roar  of  Troy.  From  the 
summit  of  this  hill  there  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
river  and  surrounding  country. 

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90 


ROUTE  PROM  ALBANY  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 


The  Rensselaer  School  is  one  and  a  half  miles 
north  of  Troy.  It  is  in  a  flourishing  condition,  and 
was  established  under  the  patronage  of  Gen.  Ste- 
phen Van  Rensselaer. 

Lansingburgh  consists  of  one  long  street,  running 
parallel  with  the  river.*  It  is  3  miles  from  Troy. 
It  was  formerly  a  place  of  considerable  business, 
but  it  has  now  a  somewhat  dilapidated  appearance. 
The  far-famed  "  diamond  rock"  is  on  a  hill  in  the 
rear  of  the  village.  It  has  at  times  a  very  brilliant 
appearance  from  the  reflected  rays  of  the  sun.  One 
mile  north,  a  very  staunch  bridge  crosses  the  river  to 
the  village  of 

Waterford.  This  is  an  important  village,  located 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  :  the 
Northern  canal  communicates  with  the  river  at  this 
place,  which  gives  it  many  advantages  for  trade.  It 
has  a  population  of  1700.  There  is  a  tine  hotel 
kept  at  Waterford  by  Mr.  Demarest,  and  an. t her  by 
Mr.  Fisk. 

The  Rovfe  by  the  junction  of  the  canals,  and 
the  Cohoes  Falls,  from  West  Troy  to  Waterford,  is 
about  the  same  distance  as  by  Troy  (1  miles).  From 
West  Troy  to  the  junction  of  the  Erie  and  Northern 
canals  is  2  miles.  There  are  17  locks  on  the  canal 
at  this  place,  within  the  space  of  three-fourths  of  a 
mile.  About  a  mile  farther,  a  bridge  crosses  the 
Mohawk  River  and  aflfords  a  fine  view  of  the 

CoHOES  Falls,  which  are  about  a  mile  above  the 
bridge.  Tlie  descent  of  the  rapids  above  the  falls 
is  about  30  feet,  and  the  perpendicular  fall  is  40 
feet,  making  a  total  descent  of  70  feet.  There  is  a 
path  by  which  persons  approach  witliin  a  few  feet 
of  the  precipice  over  which  the  cataract  falls.     It  is 


ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY    TO    THE    SPRINGS. 


91 


miles 
1,  and 
.  Ste- 


1 


mnmg 
Troy. 
^iness, 
ranee, 
in  the 
rilliant 
One 
iver  to 

ocated 
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From 
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he  falls 
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.    It  is 


I 


1  mile  from  the  Cohoes  to  Waterford,  and  8  miles 
farther  north  to 

Mechanicville,  generally  called  by  the  inhabitants 
the  Borough.  It  contains  about  20  dwellings,  a 
cotton-factory,  and  a  number  of  mills. 

Dunning-strect  is  8  miles  north-west  of  Mechanic- 
ville, containing  a  few  dwellings,  two  taverns,  and  a 
store.  It  derived  its  name  from  a  family,  who  were 
the  first  settlers,  and  still  reside  there.  Four  miles 
thence,  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  is  the  Ballston 
Spa,  and  Saratoga  Springs  are  8  miles  north.  A 
road  goes  from  here  direct  to  Saratoga,  which  is 
3  miles  nearer  than  by  way  of  Ballston  Spa. 

Ballston  Spa  is  the  resoit  of  hundreds  of  trav- 
ellers danng  the  summer  months.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  springs  in  the  vicinity,  the  waters  of  which 
are  not  unlike  those  of  Saratoga.  A  beautiful  creek 
flows  along  the  east  end  of  the  village,  called  the 
Kayaderosseras,  on  which  a  mill  is  situated  a  short 
distance  from  the  village.  This  creek  is  a  great  re- 
sort for  sportsmen,  particularly  those  who  delight  to 
sit  on  the  bank  of  a  meandering  brook, 


(( 


And  from  thoir  depths,  delude  the  spotted  fry." 


Two  of  the  springs  are  rear  Mr.  Aldrid^^s  Boarding- 
house  ;  and  the  U.  S.  Sp/f.g  is  at  the  east  end  of  the 
village,  near  the  Sans  So  id  HoteL  A  large  bathing- 
house  is  located  near  this  spring,  which  is  furnished 
with  waters  (for  tl".  ourposes  of  bathing)  from  all 
the  different  springs  in  the  vicinity.  There  is  in  the 
village  a  Oourt-House,  two  Churches,  an  Academy, 
and  a  Female  Seminary ;  also  a  printing-office  and 
bookstore,  to  which  a  reading-room  is  attached. 
This  village  was  chartered  in  1807,  and  is  directed 
by  three  trustees,  who  are  chosen  annually.     Its 


1: 


if! ', 


4 

is       ' 


92 


ROUTE    FROM     VLB ANV    TO    THE    RPRING3. 


population  is  about  800,  and  it  contains  130  houses. 
The  principal  hotels  are 

The  Sans  Souci,  kept  by  Mr.  Loomis  ;  this  is  the 
most  extensive,  and  has  more  company  than  any 
other  house.  It  is  three  stories  high,  160  feet  in 
length,  with  two  back  wings  of  150  feet,  and  capable 
of  accommodating  over  100  persons.  There  is  a 
large  garden  attached  to  it. 

Aid/ridge's  Boarding-house  has  a  more  retired  lo- 
cation, and  receives  a  good  share  of  patronage. 
Tliere  is  an  extensive  and  beautiful  garden  connected 
with  this  establishment,  which  is  always  open  to  the 
guests. 

The  Village  Hotels  kept  by  Mr.  Clark,  is  a  few 
doors  from  the  Sans  Souci,  and  is  a  very  agreeable 
board  ing-liouse. 

The  Mansion  House  is  in  the  centre  of  the  village. 

Mrs.  M''Master\s  private  Boarding-house  is  near  the 
west  spring  on  the  flat.  Those  who  wish  a  retired 
situation  will  be  pleased  with  this  house. 

A  regular  mail  arrives  and  departs  every  day. 
Strangers  should  be  particular  to  have  their  letters 
directed  "  Rallston  Spa,"  as  there  is  another  post- 
office  in  the  town  of  Ballston. 

Ballston  Lakk  is  0  miles  from  the  village,  and 
a  ride  to  its  banks  affords  a  very  pleasant  excursion. 
It  is  5  miles  long  and  1  in  width.  Hunting  and 
fishing  abound  on  the  borders  and  in  tlie  waters  of 
this  lake. 

Saratoga  Springs  are  situated  7  miles  from 
Ballston  Spa,  in  a  north-easterly  direction.  The 
celebrity  of  these  springs,  not  only  for  their  medi- 
cinal qualities,  but  as  a  fashionable  resort  during  the 
Slimmer  months,  renders  any  minuteness  of  detail 
unnecessary,  w^ere  it  not  incompatible  with  the  ob- 


I 


ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 


93 


'.l\ 


jects  and  dimensions  of  this  work.  The  springs 
are  numerous ;  and  among  the  most  celebrated  are 
the  Congress,  Hamilton,  High-Rock,  Columbian, 
Washington,  President,  and  Flat-Rock.  They  lie 
east  of  the  village,  on  the  borders  of  a  valley.  The 
Congress  spring  is  the  most  important,  and  has  the 
best  accommodations  for  visiters.  The  High-Rock 
spring,  so  called  from  its  being  enclosed  in  a  rock 
of  a  conical  shape,  five  feet  in  height,  over  the  sides 
of  which  it  formerly  flowed,  is  nearly  half  a  mile 
from  the  Congress  spring.  The  water  in  the  former 
now  rises  only  to  within  two  feet  of  the  summit  of 
the  rock,  and  from  this  circumstance  it  is  conjectured, 
probably  with  correctness,  that  it  has  found  an  outlet 
beneath  its  base.  Commodious  bathing-houses  are 
established  at  the  Washington,  Hamilton,  and  Mon- 
roe springs.  A  library  and  a  suit  of  reading-rooms 
are  connected  with  a  bookstore  in  the  village.  They 
are  conveniently  arranged,  and  well  furnished  witli 
periodicals,  newspapers,  maps,  &c.  A  mineralogical 
collection  is  also  attached  to  this  establishment,  con- 
taining a  variety  of  specimens,  both  European  and 
American,  and  all  those  discovered  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. A  book  is  also  kept  here,  in  which  the  names 
of  visiters  to  the  Springs  are  registered.  The  public 
houses  here  are  conducted  on  an  extensive  scale, 
and  rqual,  m  elegance,  and  the  accommodations 
afforded  the  traveller,  to  the  hotels  of  our  largest 
cities.  Congress  Hall,  kept  by  Messrs.  J.  &  J. 
Westcott,  is  located  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the  Con- 
gress spring.  Its  dimensions  are  large,  its  situation 
eligil  li^  and  a  shaded  avenue  communicates  with  the 
spring  ;  and  it  can  accommodate  about  200  persons. 
The  United  States'  Hotel  is  situated  ir  the  centre  of 
the  village,  and   being  four  stories  in  height,  has  u 


•I 


>i 


m 


94 


ROUTE    FROM    ALBANY    TO    THE    SPRINGa. 


-  .al 

iji  si- 


very  imposing  appearance.  Other  buildings  have 
been  added  to  the  main  one.  This  estabhshment  is 
partly  surrounded  by  grounds,  laid  out  in  a  tasteful 
manner,  and  shaded  by  flourishing  trees.  It  is  a 
splendid  house,  and  admirable  kept  by  Mr.  J.  M. 
Marvin.  The  Pavilion  is  next  in  importance.  It  is 
built  of  wood,  and  ornamented  with  colonnades  in 
front  of  very  chaste  architecture.  It  is  near  the 
riat-Rock  spring,  is  conveniently  arranged,  and  can 
accommodate  nearly  150  visiters.  It  is  kept  by  Mr. 
John  Ford.  The  Union  Hall  is  also  an  extensive 
aijd  commodious  hotel.  It  is  situated  opposite  Con- 
gress Hall,  is  three  stories  high,  and  has  a  spacious 
piazza  in  front,  supported  by  ten  lofty  pillars.  The 
grounds  connected  with  this  Itouse  are  laid  out  with 
taste.  Its  internal  arrangements  are  t  onvenient,  and 
its  landlord,  Mr.  W.  Putnam,  thoroughly  understands 
the  art  of  making  his  guests  comfortable.  The 
Columbian  Hotel,  situated  near  the  Pavilion,  in  the 
midst  of  gardens,  is  also  a  good  house,  and  will  not 
lo3e  by  comparison  with  its  rivals.  It  is  kept  by 
Mr.  Williams.  In  a  more  retired  position,  is  Wasli- 
ington  Hal  I,  of  which  Mr.  I.Taylor  is  ]/roprietor ; 
pleasantly  situated  at  tlie  north  part  of  the  village, 
where  tiie  invalid,  and  tliose  who  do  not  mingle  with 
the  gay  throng,  who  pursue  pleasure  lustead  ol  health, 
may  be  accommodated  in  tlie  best  style.  Amuse- 
ment is  always  to  be  found  during  a  sojourn  here. 
Besides  that  which  arises  from  the  cont'^mplation  of 
the  variov  si  des  oi"  character  with  which  the 
crowded  scene  is  enlivened,  the  library,  the  rep.ding- 
rooms,  tht  >ill^ard-rooms,  and  dancing,  which  seems 
to  prevail  among  the  fashionable  invalids,  afford  all 
the  opportunities  for  killing  Time — that  arch  enemy 
-^which  could  be  desired      There  are  also  ponds  in 


*  6   is 


ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 


95 


the  vicinity,  where  the  angler  can  reaHze  all  the  plea- 
sures so  philosophically  described  by  honest  Isaac 
Walton:  and  true  enjoyment  certainly  consists  in  a 
privilege 

"To  walk,  ride,  sit,  or  sleep,  at  one's  own  ease, 
And  please  a  man's  self,  none  other  to  displease." 

Excursions  of  a  few  miles  to  Saratoga  Lake  are 
frequently  made,  where  the  visiter  can  spend  his 
time  in  trout-fishing,  or  shooting,  or  enjoy  a  sail  along 
the  lake,  which  is  9  miles  in  length,  in  boats  kept 
ready  for  the  purpose.  There  are  two  pleasant 
houses  on  the  western  border  of  the  lake.  The 
mail  from  New- York  amves  every  evening,  and 
leaves  for  New- York  and  Boston  every  morning. 
Visiters  should  order  their  letters  to  be  directed  to 
the  Saratoga  Springs^  as  there  is  another  post-office 
in  the  town  of  Saratoga,  some-  miles  distant,  to 
wliich,  otherwise,  they  may  chance  to  be  sent. 


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"  Books  that  you  may  carry  to  ihejire,  and  hold  readily  in  yow  hsni, 
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ITie  volumes  now  before  the  public  may  be  confidently  appealed  to 
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HAltPER'S    FAiMlhY   LIBRARY. 


Nos.  1,2,  3.  Milmnn's  History 
of  the  Jews.    With  plates 
4,  5.  Loi:khart's  Lile  of  Napo- 
leon Bonaparte.    Plates-. 

6.  Southey's  Life  of  Nelson 

7.  Williams'.^  Lile  of  Alexan- 
der the (ireat.     Plates- . . . 

8.  Natural  History  of  Insi;cts  1  v. 
i».  Gait's  Life  of  Lord  liyron  1  v. 

10.  Hush's  Life  of  Mohammed  I  v. 

11.  Scott  on  Demonology  and 
Witchcrad.     Plaf- 

12.  13.  Cleig's  Bible  History. . 

14.  Discovery   and  Adventure 

in  the  Polar  Sijiis,  Jtc l  v. 

15.  Croly's  Lite  of  (']Jeorge  IV.  1  v. 

16.  Discovery  and  Adventure 
in  Africa.    Engravings  . . 

17,18,19.  Cunningham's  Lives 
of  Painters,  Sculptors,  «fcc 


3v. 

2v. 

1  V. 

Iv. 


Iv. 
2v. 


Iv. 


3  v. 
Iv. 


20,  James's  History  of  Chiv- 
alry and  the  Crusades  — 

21,22.  Bell's  Life  of  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots.     Portrait  2  v. 

23.  Russell's  Ancient  and  Mod- 
ern Egypt,    With  plates. .  1  v. 

24.  Fletcher's  History  Poland  1  v. 

25.  Smith's  Festivals,  Games, 

and  Amusements 1  v. 

Brewster's  Life  of  Sir  Isaac 
Newton.    With  plates.. .  1  v, 

Russell's  Palestine,  or  the 
Holy  Land.    With  Plates  Iv. 

Memes's  Memoirs  of  Em- 
press Josephine.    Plates.,  iv. 

The  Court  and  Camp  of 
Bonaparte.     With  plates  1  v. 

30.  Lives  of  Early  Navigators  1  v. 

31.  Description  of  Pitcairn's 
Island,  <k;c.   Engravings..  1  v. 

.32.  Turner's  Sacred  History..  1  v. 
33,  34.  Memoirs  of  celebrated 
Female  Sovereigns '  v. 


26. 


28. 
29. 


35,  Sr».  Landers'  Africa 2  v 

37.  Abercrombie  on  the  Intel- 
lectual Powers,  &c 1  v. 

38,-40.  Celebrated   Travellers  3  v. 

41,42.  Life  of  Frederic  II.  Kmg 
of  Prussia.     Portrait 2  v. 

43,  44.  Sketches  from  Venetian 
History.     With  plates...  2 v. 

45,  40.  Thatcher's  Indian  Lives  2  v. 

47,4.S,49.  History  of  India.-..  3  v. 

50.  Brewster's  Letters  on  Nat- 

ural Magic.     Engravings,  i  v. 

51,  52.  History  of  Ireland 2tr. 

53.  Discoveries  on  the  North- 
ern Coasts  of  America- •• .   1  V. 

54.  Humboldt's  Travels 1  v. 

55.  50.  F^ulcr's  Letters  on  Nat- 

ural Philosophy 2  v. 

57.  Mudie's  Guide  to  the  Ob- 
servation of  Nature 1  v. 

58.  Abercrombie  on  the  Philos- 
ophy of  the  Moral  Feelings  1  v. 

59.  Dick  on  the  Improvement 

of  Society,  Education,  &c.  1  v. 

60.  James' Life  of  Charlemagne  1  v. 

61.  Nubia  and  Abyssinia I  v. 

62.  63.  Life  of  Cromwell 2  ▼. 

64,  Montgomery's  Lectures  . .  1  v. 

65,66.  Eminent  Painters 2  v. 

67,  68.  History  of  Arabia 2  v. 

Several  historical  works  in  press. 

CLASSICAL  SERIES. 

1,2.  Xenophon,  (Anabasis  and 

Cyropaedia,)    Portrait 2  v. 

3,4.  Leland's  Demosthenes..  2 v. 

5.  Rose's  Sallust.    Portrait..  1  v. 

6,7.  Caesar's  Commentaries..  2v, 

8,  9, 10.  Cicero.    Portrait  ....  3  v. 

11,12.  Virgil.    Portrait 2v. 

DRAMATIC  SERIES. 
1,2,3.  Massinger's  Plays.   ..  .?  v, 
i,  5.  Ford's  Plays 2  r. 


€ri)coloQical  Hibraro. 


1.  Life  of  Wiclif. 1  v. 

8.  Consistency  of  Revelation.  1  v. 


3,  4.  Life  of  Luther 1  r. 

5,  6.  Life  of  Cranmer   2v. 


aiJo5'»  antj 

I.  Lives  of  the  Apostles,  &c.  1 

2, 3.  Swiss  Family  Robinson. .  2 

4.  Sunday  Evenings,  1st  vol.  1 

6.  Son  of  a  Genius I 

(j.  Uncle  Philip'sConversations  1 

7,8,  Indian  Traits 2 

d,  10,  11.  American  History. .  3 

12.  Young  Crusoe  — 1 


aSixVH  Hilirav?). 

v.  13.  Sunday  Evenings,  2d  vol.    1  v. 

v.     14.  Perils  of  the  Sea 1  v. 

V,    15.  Female  Biograjjhy I  v. 

V.     16.  Caroline  Westerley 1  v. 

V,     17.  Clergyman's   Orphan Iv 

V.  18.  Sunday  Evenings,  last  vol,  1  v. 

V  19.  Ornaments  Discovered..  1  v, 

v.  20.  Uncle  Philip,  Christianity  1  r. 


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Rev.  Robt.  Hall's  Works,  3  v.  8vo. 

Good's  Book  of  Nature 8vo. 

Crabb's  English Synonymes.  .8vo. 
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Bulwer's  Novels 10  v.  12mo. 

Miss  Edgeworth's  do.  .10  v.  12mo. 

James's  do 12  v.  12mo. 

The  Whigs  of  Scotland,  2  v.  12mo. 
The  English  at  Home  .  .2  v.  12mo. 

Traits  of  Travel 2  v.  12mo. 

Heiress  of  Bruges 2  v.  I2mo. 

Dreams  and  Reveries. .  2  v.  12ino. 
Roxobel,  Mrs.  Sherwood  3  v.  18mo. 
Diary  of  a  Physician. .  .2  v.  18mo. 

Sketch  Book  of  Fashion 12mo. 

Last  of  the  Plantagenets,  2  v.  12mo. 
Southennan,  by  Gait. . .  2  v.  I2mo. 

Heiress  of  Bruges 2  v.  12rao. 

Stories  of  a  Bride 2  v.  12mo. 

Tales  by  a  Chaperon  . .  2  v,  12rno. 
Tales  of  the  W«st. .. .  2  v.  12mo. 


Rom.  of  History,  France  2v. 
Rom.  of  History  7fa/y,  2  v. 

Hungarian  Tales 2  v. 

Romance  and  Reality.  ..2  v. 

The  False  Step,  &c 2  v. 

Rybrcnt  De  Cruce    2  v. 

The  School  of  Fashion,  2  v. 

Almack's  Revisited 2  v. 

Campaigns  of  a  Cornet,  2  v. 
Tales  of  Military  Life  .  .2  v. 
Sketches  of  Irish  Character. . 

Leggett's  Tales,  &c 

Ambitious  Student,  Bulwer, 
The  Talba— Beatrice  .  .2  v. 
Incognito — Haverhill . .  2  v. 
Zohrab— Oxonians  ...  2  v. 
Waverley— Cloudesley,  2  v. 


12mo. 
12mo. 
12mo. 
12mo. 
12ma 
12mo. 
12mo. 
12mo. 
I2mo. 
12mo, 
l^o. 
12m(K 
12mo. 
I2mo. 
12mo 
12mo> 
12mOr 


H  1 


'.  12mo. 
'.  I2mo. 
^  12mo. 
'.  12mo. 
.  ISmoi 
'.  12mo. 
\  12mo. 
'.  12mo. 
.  12ma. 
'.  12mo, 
•  Ifino, 
.  12in(K 
,  12mo. 
.  I2mo. 
.  12mo 
.  12mo. 


J* 


